Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Few questions

Before that is it tig or mig ? Not sure, but I know little bit about this like letting it cool off and to tack a bar in place to reduce flex etc

1. We see this all the time on race cars to improve rigidity so has anyone done it? Any tips or tricks? Because I hear the chassis wi flex.

2. If we were to go to a professional to get it done what would the cost be? Say for just the front strut towers ?

3. There's a tig I've seen mentioned on an earlier post for about $560 would this be suitable.

4. If it is feasable and practical I may buy it and do my car just for fun to see what it's like, obviously you don't need much experience to spot weld inch on inch off. Would there be by probs other than flexing?

Depending on things I may be willing to help out fellow sau members but that depends on time taken to complete etc.

Let me know ta!

Edited by DaGr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251286-tig-welding-your-car/
Share on other sites

hi bud.....

have you ever welded before..?? tig and mig a toatally different....if you buy a tig buy a gas regulator consumeables such as tugnsten tips nozzles and diffusers.....oh and a bottle of inert gas...argon...migs need gas aswell...or you can you a flux cored wire (gasless) just so you know you can get flux cored wire thats requirs gas too.....

inch on inch off is stiching not spot welding...

what are you hopeing to acheive?

what sort of driving do you do is it even worth the time money effort???

I see, I guess I'll be stitching then ^_^ improve rigidity for track use and I have used a welder in high school some 6 years ago, but if it helps I know I will do a quick course on it, basically just put stitches all over like strut towers etc I'll post up a few photos when I get home but yeah the whole idea is for improved rigidity and less chassis flex and flatter cornering etc willing to spend 560 on a welder to do this

ah i see...maybe it would be money better spent on good suspension , better sway bars spring shocks......etc

myabe i dont know....:D good luck with it anyways mate..i got a mig welder new off ebay for 290 delivered it works a treat....running gassless....i think it was from Geoffs Tools online store (ebay)

;)

TIG will give u a nicer weld-presentation wise,& depending on the operator probably more penetration.

Mig is quick & easy but doesnt look as good as TIG.

& yes dont use gasless on your car it looks shitty no matter how good u r at welding.

TIG will give u a nicer weld-presentation wise,& depending on the operator probably more penetration.

Mig is quick & easy but doesnt look as good as TIG.

& yes dont use gasless on your car it looks shitty no matter how good u r at welding.

shielded welding (gas) will alwyas give a nicer weld...and you can get a nice looking weld using gassless......dont know why everyone thinks gasless is so horrible

Hey mate tig is the go, and it will take alot more work than just the strut towers. I fyou really wont to gain something out of this you will want to weld almost every seam on the car in which case you will need to pull the windscreen out weld all the way down the join there the shotgun panels stich the underside of your car and so on, it's a big job if you want to do it propaly if your in melbourne outer east give me a pm and I'll come out and show you were you want to weld anyhow good luck....

Too bad I'm in sydney :P well I've got this rolling shell sitting in the back yard you see so I wanna slowly do all that prepare it for track fun... You think doing just the strut towers + the whole interior and boot will have any effect? Don't wanna start pulling windows out if I don't have to...

hmm just come across this thread and its exactly what i'm doing right now with my R31 skyline shell. TIG welding ALL (yes all) the seams and joins of the body. Though i'm only welding in the cabin area, as front and rear has strut braces going on. TIG is better than mig as it moulds the joins together rather than adding to them.

The only downside to welding most seams in your car, is you go through a lot of gas, and gas refills are around the $90-110 mark.

And yes, it is really easy to blow huge holes in the body if ya not careful.....practice on something first !!

I'll have to take pictures and post up my R31 body.

Few questions

Before that is it tig or mig ? Not sure, but I know little bit about this like letting it cool off and to tack a bar in place to reduce flex etc

1. We see this all the time on race cars to improve rigidity so has anyone done it? Any tips or tricks? Because I hear the chassis wi flex.

2. If we were to go to a professional to get it done what would the cost be? Say for just the front strut towers ?

3. There's a tig I've seen mentioned on an earlier post for about $560 would this be suitable.

4. If it is feasable and practical I may buy it and do my car just for fun to see what it's like, obviously you don't need much experience to spot weld inch on inch off. Would there be by probs other than flexing?

Depending on things I may be willing to help out fellow sau members but that depends on time taken to complete etc.

Let me know ta!

ok i could write a whole page of dos and donts but short answers r

1 done 8 full cars and bits on i dont know how many cars .best trick is prep clean the surfaces back to bare metal then clean some more

seam sealer between the pannels is your worst enemy

you will only get flex if u heat the area to much

2 just the towers u say, if u do all the stripping n some prep around 350 if they have to strip ,prep,weld,seal,paint,around 1300

3 i would not use a tig i would use a mig some reasons are speed mig is much faster, n trying to tig upside down under the car is not easy

and it is easier to get the mig into tight places

tig is good for small jobs un less u have a fark off watercooled tig

4 heaps of othe problems if the prep is bad, fires ,chocking on smoke clouds , burns from boiling seam sealer splashing back at u

good prep will make a big difference

heres a few pics

post-32345-1231414223_thumb.jpg

post-32345-1231414239_thumb.jpg

post-32345-1231414260_thumb.jpg

post-32345-1231414282_thumb.jpg

post-32345-1231414322_thumb.jpg

More cost effective to diy, how come yours are spaced apart more than what I've seen on some map cars? Any noticeable difference in feel of the car? Rigidity? Flex?

i usually go in between spot welds as it is already welded on that spot as the name sugests.

it does make a difference but u wont notice much if the rest of your set up is lacking

if u do go to the effort then another thing u can do is around the door jams with a spot welder

new spot welds in between the factory ones

Mmm now to hunt down a mig ^_^ thanks alot for the great input guys once the funds are back up I'll start posting up pics, but first I need to add a boost cooler to my daily

i just bought a new 3 phase mig and want to sell off my gas/gasless SIP Mig if your keen.

similar to this item - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SIP-Mig-Welder_W0QQ...106122001r15622

i payed $575 retail for it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...