Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy

What would be a nice safe high boost setting to run an RB20DET on ?

i have larger fuel pump, injectors, FMIC, aftermarket ECU, 3"exh and soon hopefully a larger turbo.

what would be the max PSI to run ?

*my current turbo is highflowed, dont wanna hear about ceramic wheels etc etc*

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25148-nice-safe-boost-for-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Yep. pulled 222hp at the wheels too.

had it on that setting for more than a year driving it everyday and no problems, i know a few others doing the same without dramas.

although i now have a HKS2530. but ive still got the original turbo in my garage and it has zero play in any direction and all the exaust blades are in perfect condition.

mmmm TD06 is nice!

but as i use my car everyday the 2530 is perfect.

im currently making 278hp at the wheels (210rwkw) at less than 1bar but im hitting boost cut. should make over 300rwhp once i get the ECU chipped or something, just run out of money now... and the HKS turbo doesnt reach its efficiency band till 1.2bar!

so im hoping it will do ok. the beauty of the 2530 is that it comes on boost very early and i think that it actually has more pull off boost driving than my std turbo did, so all round it is a really sweet turbo for everyday, anymore power and i will have serious traction issues as it struggles already.

ask Roy about the TD06, i think he has a 20g on an RB20 and is very happy with that, im gonna have to check it out sometime soon.

hey..

when you say hi flow.

what exactly are the specs?

who built it?

did the place that built it tell you what HP the turbo is now good for?

anyway, if you have the air:fuel mixtures right, then like the guys have said, up to 20 psi is probably good.

I know you said you have pump and gtr injectors.. but have you had it dyno'd to see what the mixtures are like at the moment?

I'm praying that it was 12 and not 14..

that would be WAAAAY too lean.

I've been told that a SAFE a:f ratio is about 11.5:1

but up to 12 is probably still safe...

currently mine is at 12.5:1 and that is a little lean for my liking.

I've got the GTR pump ready to go in so that should help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...