Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently found a supplier in the states for Mahle pistons for dirt cheap. The company who are supplying them are Race-Mart.

They have the full range of Mahle pistons and prices are as follows:

RB25 86.0mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 343g - US$635

RB25 86.5mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 344g - US$635

RB25 87.0mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 345g - US$635

RB26 86.5mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 312g - US$869.67

RB26 87.0mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 313g - US$869.67

RB26/30 hyprid 86.5mm -4.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 320g - US$635

RB26/30 hybrid 87.0mm -4.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 321g - US$635

All prices are excluding shipping which will be approximately US$41.95 per set of pistons.

All payments need to be made and cleared by Friday 23 January, and order will be placed that evening.

If there are any other Mahle pistons you require, let me know and i'll grab a price.

cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251580-mahle-pistons-group-buy/
Share on other sites

Prices in AUD please.

MRXTCZ

Price in AUD will be dependant on the exchange rate on the 23rd, or if i place the order sooner. Main reason is i'm buying them in USD and i'm not making a cent on them and i'm certainly not going to cop extra charge if i set a price in AUD now and have it change on the 23rd.

However at the current exchange rate via xe.com, the 635 sets are ~960 delivered, and the 869.67 sets are ~1295 delivered

I will know definate shipping prices tomorrow morning, as i'm getting them to give a solid shipping quote (in USD)

Maybe a good idea to try IPP Flatlander USA (www.importperformanceparts.net), they have the following pricing:

RB26 86.5mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 312g - US$769

RB26 87.0mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 313g - US$769

Added to the list are EJ20 pistons:

EJ20 92.5mm -12cc dome 8:1 CR 348g - US$421.33

EJ20 93.0mm -12cc dome 8:1 CR 353g - US$421.33

Also shipping has been confirmed, shipping will be US$50 per set of pistons shipped direct to each individual.

beware all RB25 and RB26 block engines...these pistons are not direct fit.

but can be made to fit quite easily...now that i have done them and worked the best method out without having to machine the piston.

Yeh i havnt seem them in an engine first hand but i believe you have to space the oil squirter and turn it so they clear

yeah it was like a few hours fu(king around to get the 1st one worked out and 10mins to do the rest...lol.

you have to work out a happy medium between clearing the piston skirt and the crank counterweight...also between the piston bracing from the gudgeon pin to the skirt and the conrod.

yeah it was like a few hours fu(king around to get the 1st one worked out and 10mins to do the rest...lol.

you have to work out a happy medium between clearing the piston skirt and the crank counterweight...also between the piston bracing from the gudgeon pin to the skirt and the conrod.

do you have the exact spec of the spacer you used ??? it would helps us alot !!!!

thanks in advance .

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...