Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently my radiator decided its going to leak trans fluid so i replaced it, started her up and its leaking from the exact same place as my old one....... I think its a bit strange that the radiator i got to replace it would do the same thing as my other one so im beginning to think its not the radiator that is causing this to happen. Any ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251758-radiator-leaking-trans-fluidhelp/
Share on other sites

Recently my radiator decided its going to leak trans fluid so i replaced it, started her up and its leaking from the exact same place as my old one....... I think its a bit strange that the radiator i got to replace it would do the same thing as my other one so im beginning to think its not the radiator that is causing this to happen. Any ideas??

If you are talking about the radiator, then it won't leak transmission fluid, it will leak radiator coolant. What colour is the fluid? Is is watery or slightly oily?

If it is transmission fluid, it could be from the power steering pump or lines and if your car is an auto it could be from that or the transmission cooler that normaly sits in front of the radiator.

If you are talking about the radiator, then it won't leak transmission fluid, it will leak radiator coolant. What colour is the fluid? Is is watery or slightly oily?

If it is transmission fluid, it could be from the power steering pump or lines and if your car is an auto it could be from that or the transmission cooler that normaly sits in front of the radiator.

My transmission cooler and radiator are one piece

Edited by Slow S13

mite be you id hoses, they maybe split or the like. if they are go done 2 autobarn and yea new ones, think its 10mm id hoses not 100% sure on size and length, will need 2 top up on auto trans fluid.

the auto radiator has a chamber to cool the trans fluid with an inlet and outlet.

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks heaps and yes my trans cooler tank is part of my radiator. Found the problem and was in the most stupidest place that i would have never found in a million years...

Car has been running perfectly for more than 2 days now, thats a record!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
×
×
  • Create New...