Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a rb30/25det engine for sale which has just been removed from my car due to a different direction in project engine consists of:

RB30 block balanced and blueprinted

shot peened and nitrited standard conrods

wiseco forged pistons and o-ringed with copper headgasket

drilled and tapped tensioner to suit rb25det head

done approx. 15000km since block was rebuilt

head has done 2000km since reconditioned with new valves and seals,

Tomei camshafts 256 degree angle and 8.5mm lift

stiffer valve springs to suit

welded, machined and drilled and tapped to allow vct to still works

exhaust manifold is custom steampipe high mount hpc coated in black with t3 flange and to suit external wastegate

intake manifold is a polished plazmaman plenum on standard runners with standard throttle body

custom alumnium fuel rail and 6x 660cc rochestor injectors

ford xr6 idle control valve (as standard one kept failing)

polished rocker covers

gates timing belt

engine comes with oil, water and power steering pumps and belts also alternator

Asking price is $5700 neg will seperate if not sold

not sure how to put pictures up but can be seen on ebay over weekend or can email pics to anyone interested any questions call Ben on 0423-496-210 leave a message if not answered or send text thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251847-rb3025det-engine/
Share on other sites

Go to Imageshack or Tinypic and upload the file onto your computer , then click insert image. Go to imageshack/tinypic page and copy the web address that the upload gives u and paste into the insert image box. insert the it twice incase the 1st one comes up with a white box with red cross. If it does in the second image insert you should have or sum shit like that twice at each end delete one of em and it should work. Thats what I do and it works for me ><

hey man

interested in plazmaman intake plenum, let me know if u will separate

thanks

slav

would like to sell head complete $3000 but if no takers i will break it up

thanks

any power figures?

with this setup and a garrett to4z ball bearing, cdi ignition, ems 8860 and a stengthened auto power was 346.8rwkw at 18psi and 303.4rwkw at 16psi.

individual prices are now:

plazmaman plenum and standard intake runners+throttle body, xr6 turbo idle control motor $1000

custom steampipe exhaust manifold hpc coated black t3 flange and suit external wastgate $800

complete head minus manifolds $2000

block minus alternator $1000

aluminium fuel rail and 6x 660cc rochestor injectors to suit $550

Apexi avcr electronic boost controller complete $450

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...