Jump to content
SAU Community

Luxon Monoblock Amp Running 2x 12inch Mtx 5500

Kujotk

By Kujotk,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

Ive had this set up for 5 years and its done me very well.

2x12inch mtx 5500's, in sealed box, one luxon monoblock amp (from strathfield) only 8 guage wireing (wire from battery terminal to amp is only 30cm long). Inline 2 farrad capacitor, running on a pioneer head deck.

i took outmy subbs for a few weeks and left everything else in theboot still connected.

when i reconnect the subbs they move inwards asif i have connected the positive and negaative speaker wires the wrong way around (but ive checked this 100000000 times).

Does it sound like the amp is rooted???? what elsecould it be?

cheers

Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted

Incorrect, how ever you would have been correct if his subs were out oh phase with the rest of his system and changing the setting on the head unit from normal to reverse would have fixed the problem along with reversing the polarity of the subs or RCA leads but to me it sounds like your amp is sending DC power to you subs.

This is why the cones on subs are going all the way in and staying there. It is a problem with your amp and it is highly possible that its died. There isnt really a whole lot that can cause this sort of thing apart from a fried amp.however double check over the power connections to the amp,make sure its grounded correctly etc. Try the amp in another car to rule out the rest of your system.

Just read you have a cap in the system too,try removing it or bypassing it to see if that is introducing the problem,its a very slim chance that it is but its something to try.

Jack

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

you definately do NOT need that 2 farad capacitor for starters... I run 3000WRMS without any capacitors... if you have a decent battery, they're like the spinners of the audio world...

are you saying they move in on the first beat instead of out? or that they move in once powered and stay there??

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you definately do NOT need that 2 farad capacitor for starters... I run 3000WRMS without any capacitors... if you have a decent battery, they're like the spinners of the audio world...

are you saying they move in on the first beat instead of out? or that they move in once powered and stay there??

nope definately need the capacitor. with out it my front speakers get distorted and are quiter every time a deep beat is punched. also the headlights dim witout the cap. happend in my old car and in the skyline aswell (although it wasnt as bad in the skyline). Mind you i am running a shit supercheap autos battery, and dont know how well the alternator is running.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

changed amps and now i'm blowing the fuses behind the amp. What wires would be shorting to make the fuses blow. everything from the battery/capacitor/amp/subs is wired correctly...... also i by passed the capacitor to see if that was the prob, no change.

is there anything else from the headunit that could cause the amp to short its fuses? its the only thing i'm missing because its a mess behind my headunit and when i installed it i only twisted the wires and electrical taped them up, i'm thinking that mabey the electrical tape has melted (the glue) and it's shorting to something there. but i can't workout why this would happen? there not related at all. got the rca's that plug front and back, and got the remote wire. they are the only wires that connect the headunit and the amp.

  • 2 weeks later...
cactus Collaborator

cactus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Easiest is to take amp out and down to audio joint and ask em to test it, its usually free or maybe $20 or something, they will let you know straight away.

Ooops didnt read whole post. which fuses are blowing? your subs might be killing the fuse because its too small, you may need a larger fuse inbetween the power wire to your amp.

And yeah the cap is a bit over-kill :P I have one amp running at 1x4200rwms @ 2ohm and another 2x800wrms @ 4ohm without cap and just an odyssey battery!

Edited by cactus
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

You misunderstand me man, I mean to say that if you set the stereo up the right way, then you will NEVER need a capacitor... If you do need one, then there's something that you can improve on...

Are you blowing the wedge fuses IN the amp, or the inline fuse for the power going TO the amp??

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

actually fixed thr problem today.....

anyway I had no sound through the subs with my original amp.... bought a shitty Boss amp, the boss kept blowing the amp fuses (all 4 of them at a time),,,, couldnt work out why it kept blowing..... took it to a mate who used to install them professionally,,,, he went over the whole car and checked the vital stats, all was good.... threw in the boss amp again and it still blew all the amps, at this point my mate says the amp is rooted, take it back and exchange,,,, went back this morning and threw another boss one in, atleast this amp turned on ad didnt blow fuses. Still no sound from the subs, then got a big mo fo MTX thunder series mono block, hooked it up (boy was the mtx a rolls royce compared to boss), didnt work.... the amp was on but subs didnt work. then i slammed my r33 drivers door shut and the subs came to life, i opend the door and they stopped, did this 5 times lol.... i was so confused. Then i ran upstairs and grabbed myself some new rca's and threw them in, then it started hammering, the tunder MTX mono block suited my mtx 5500's perfectly even though it wasn't tuned, never heard my subs so smooth and loud before...

then i took the old rca's out and had a look and oneof them was shorting as the insulation was cut... put some decent sony rca's (yes the sony rca's arnt as bad as the rest of their car audio stuff). Then i had a choice of spending $400 on an new mtx amp or see if my old one would work now....

long story short is i bought new amp fuses, threw them in my original luxon amp and it still worked, not as good as the mtx amp but good enough. This bloody Luxon amp just keeps on going, looks like it will out last me.

But now i know what i'm missing out on, the clarity from the MTX amp was amazing, my 4 year old subs became brand new again.

now i wanna sell my reliable Luxon amp and put the money towards the MTX. Anyone interested in a proven reliable 600rms luxon mono block????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...