Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252141-r33-gts-t-heater/
Share on other sites

hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

hi mate your heater core is behind the dash inside the car ,and it is a shi...t job to change it ..mine done the same thing ..all i done was pull the 2 hoses off that run to the heater which you will find in the engine bay ..just pull them off and either join them together .or put bungs in them so water doesnt get to the heater core .just means you wont have a heater ...thats the easy fand cheap fix ..

Yep, almost positive it's your heater core, it's a common problem. If you do a search there is a tutorial on how to remove the heater core, it's a prick of a job, but can be done in a day. Problem is finding a 2nd hand replacement core, or putting up with no heating :(

ah k then

cheers for the help guys

might have to join the pipes in that case coz it sounds liek a crap job:(

and im guessing a new core would be fairly expensive to

It's easy enough to bypass, but that will still leave a fair bit of water in the core already, and you want to be careful it doesn't lead to ruting your passenger footwell.

Yep

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...WTO-t32611.html

Apparently a replacement heater core isn't that expensive

I got a replacement from my local natrad dealer ( www.natrad.com.au ) for 225, it was the 300zx heater core - I had to take mine out, show him it, then he measured it up and figured out it was the 300zx one.
Be aware that if you bypass the heater and if you get a yellow sticker, that will be one of the things the inspector will make you fix.

thats one reason why you just pull the hoses off ,and put bungs in them so water cant get in the heater core but still looks like its hooked up .and that solvex that problem unless they check it .

If you block them off then the water cant flow like the system was designed. I would much rather loop them and keep the system working as was intended.

I think it would be defectable if the inspector was a c**t as you wouldnt be able to defrost your windscreen on cold mornings.

I have replaced one before and it wasnt that bad of a job. Keep in mind I had taken a dash out before so a lot of it wasnt new to me. Also I used an R32 heater core and it fit in the R33 just fine....which might open up your second hand market a bit

mmm yea i will join them and keep it flowing:)

ah right that sounds good

i like cheaper things lol

i wonder though...... might be a bit hit and miss with second hand whether its going to have the same problem or not?

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

haha think id rather pay the extra whatever it is than pull my dash out 4 times lol

doesnt look like much fun from the drawings and tutorials and stuff

mmmm ye thats an idea ay

should look into it

lol yes and my cruiser has gone 3 years with no heater as well :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...