Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know where i can get my air conditioning system repaired?

it currently only blows hot air on my feet, and if i want it cold i have to manually move the motor under the dash to get it to cold, but its stuck on feet for good.

giving me the shits.

I need to find sumone to repair it in melbourne, preferably sumone who knows about skylines and has worked on air con b4

thanx

ps: ive taken it to an auto electrician and he wouldnt touch it cause it was a jap import

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25217-r33-gtst-aircon-repairs/
Share on other sites

If it won't move off feet it could be something simple like a missing vacuum line or a control rod slipped off its pivot. Try pulling the middle bits out of the dash and see if you can find anything wrong.

ive just pulled half my dash aprt today, cant see anything wrong.

what i meant about the motor is i manually have to turn it if i want to go from hot to cold, its like the motor aint strong enuf to turn the gate from hot to cold. am i making sense??

gota find sumone to fix it

there is a pipe that fits onto a blank panel on the back of the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. Its like a hose connection that connects to a plug. I had my stereo done and they forgot to put that back on and hot air just blew onto my feet all the time and 18 degrees was cold and 19 degrees was boiling. maybe thats it?

you have to pull the dash out to get at it.

the a/c-heater is fully electric.

the motor you are talking about is the blend door motor.

they often fail but i would look at other stuff first as is sounds like nothing else is working.

in theory if you moved the door by hand the computor would want to move it back.have a look if the rest of the doors work.then go from there.

the system is still very basic.

basic u reckon?

i reckon its so complicated.

slamm, that hose your talkin about was my first though too, but it aint that. i ran the ac diagnostics and i got just about evry error you can. One of the error codes was 26 which is PBR, but i got no idea what pbr is. anyone???

davehoos, what do u mean by the rest of the doors, that motorised door im talking about is the only one i can find.

PBR POTETIO BALAST RESISTER ON MY R31 its at the end of the heater control cable to set the temperature.

i havnt had to repair a R33 inside [only r/r the evaporator for gas leaks.]R31 and R32 have three control motors so i would think that r33 is similar.

but on most of these type the fresh recirc door is motor or vacumm.also the mode or vent controls.face feet.

if recirc door dont work then you have some were to start as it not conected to the temperature settings..

If all fails the system tend to go hot.this might be ok in japanese or european winters.

there is a light sencor ,air cabin temp .outside temp, water temp,

and 2 a/c evaportator temp sencors.have i made your day.

the resistance values are very generic i have replaced thermostat probes with elcheepos.

While we are on the topic of aircon, does anybody know what the knocking sound is when you first turn the car on? Its in the centre of the dash, not in the motor. It lasts about 5 seconds and probably sounds more like an aerial motor that will keep going once the aerial is fully retracted. I got told it was something to do with the air con or fan.

any ideas? or is this normal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...