Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 34gtt had a service recently and everything was ok besides front bushes. I think due to the front suspension being quite low, the front tension rod bushes are split and leaking? (obviously wear and tear also). Can anyone suggest what parts to put on to fix the problem? any rough cost estimate?

How big of a deal is this split and leaking? - just so i kno to either fix it this week or within the next few weeks...

I want to buy a set of coilovers, would that alone solve the problem? or is that different part altogether? sorry im a masive suspension noob!

Any help would be great!

Julz.

Edited by 1R34SON

Does your car pull to one side or wander over the road? Mine did with stuffed caster bushes.

With the bushes you can replace them with standard ones or go for adjustable ones. Most people go with adjustables, as this means you can increase the caster giving you more straight line stability and more camber while cornering. Whiteline, Superpro and Pedders all make adjustable caster bushes.

I paid $130 for adjustable bushes and $40 to get them press fitted, but I'm assuming you wont be doing the work yourself, so it'll be a little bit more than that when you factor in labour costs for rermoving the tension rods. Ring around and get some quotes

Btw, coilovers wont fix the problem at all - different part.

mine pulls to the left which i have been thinking is alignment, caster bushes and tension rod bushes are the same thing i presume? Thankyou for your help ill shop around then get quotes on install/fit cheers mate!

Yeah, caster bushes = tension rod bushes.

The worn bushes will be the reason it pulls to the left. If your bushes are split and leaking then obviously the cars aligment will be out.

Get the new bushes fitted and then get a wheel alignment. Should make the car alot nicer to drive.

Getting it sorted for roughly 300, 160 for bushes plus labour and another thing getting fixed included. lol mechanic showed me everything and explained bout the bushes. haha now I feel like a real idiot asking if new coilovers would fix it. Good to learn new things!

Cheers for the help!

Getting it sorted for roughly 300, 160 for bushes plus labour and another thing getting fixed included. lol mechanic showed me everything and explained bout the bushes. haha now I feel like a real idiot asking if new coilovers would fix it. Good to learn new things!

Cheers for the help!

No worries mate, seems like a fair price as well.

uhm

what exactly are the tension rod bushes leaking? =O

They are silicon filled, when they get old and start cracking the silicon starts to leak out.

They are silicon filled, when they get old and start cracking the silicon starts to leak out.

Very common with the standard bushes. Whiteline bushes fixed my problem a few years ago. So much better for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...