Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh pretty much as the title says, having a huge coolant leak from the back of the engine but havent been able to pinpoint where from.

had the car up an put copious amounts of fluid through the radiator and it pisses out the back and from what i can see it gushes out above the gearbox, but there is jus sfa room to have a look where its coming from? ;) any one else similar problem?

i've searched not only this but a few other forums but havent been able to get an answer. jus hoping i could get some sort of an idea before i take it in to a mechanic

cheers for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253295-r33-s2-leaking-coolant/
Share on other sites

water pump leaking? that tends to be sign of "change me"

hoses to the firewall leaking? ( passenger side)

The drain plug on the engine blow which is on the passenger side leaking?

cant think of much else which could be contributing to a radiator leak at the back of the engine..

Edited by br3ndan
heater hoses

but more than likely the turbo water feed from the back of the plenum.

thats what i was thinking but hoping it wasnt..

thanks for all the help guys will try get some time after work and have a look and take some photos

ok had another look after work today but started to piss down so didnt get much time but its not pump, not the hoses to the firewall im pretty sure its either the heater hoses or the water feed but cant quiet see, pretty sure i've got it pin pointed at the bottom right hand side of the block as u look at it head on.

Taso84 what did you end up having to do with yours?

thanks for any help

this is an absolute broad minded person of a job but you have to do it man

when i did it, it was on my mates s12 w/sr20 conversion and there is NO ROOM at the back

we had to remove the plenum to properly access the hoses

here is a tip: if your struggling undo the gearbox mount and jack the gearbox up higher, it will slope the engine downwards and give you a bit more room to work

here is a pic of the hose i had to replace

post-42017-1232452462_thumb.jpg

sh*t from what i've read this will be aprick of a job or a hit to the back pocket. yeh tell me bout the lack of room its crazy!

yeh i figured i'd be taking some stuff off/out, thanks for the help gfunkk.

jus gunna grab a mate or two and a case an see how we go this weekend i reckon.

cheers for the help fellas

bottom right of an RB - only water above that are heater hoses and the steel turbo feed line.

Or a welsh plug in the block...

go to a mechs and see if they can pressurise your coolant system to allow you to check it exactly.. then see if you want to fix yourself or not

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...