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external gate turbos are cheaper then internals, i know a good price for the turbo + housing is $1700 or below. You can probably do better but its not that bad.

I would try calling your local garrett supplier rather then gcg. You want genuine matched parts. Pm discopatatoe if your unsure he knows all the correct part numbers.

Not sure you'll do that much better with cams, I've got the same turbo but with the external gate and am making approx. the same power as you. I've also got Tomei 256/8.5's and a HKS cast low mount {extrude honed and HPC coated]. I have made almost 300 [so the set up has potential], but had to wind it back because of knock. Guilt Toy reckons it could be false knock because the PFC and the knock sensors are prone to false readings at anything over say230-250rwkw. But I'm not game to trust that line of thought with my motor. So what I'm saying is that knock levels are your ceiling, not the turbo or your other supports.

So I'm going to try WMI first and see what that does [Mafia likes it] to my knock levels. But I'm only playing cos I'll likely go 25/30 one day anyway.

Your calls but if you were having a manifold made I'd hold off for the twin scroll twin integral (internal) gate turbine housing Garrett are going to do for the Lancer Evo 10 . You get all of the benefits of the twin scroll sysyem without the agro of one or two external waste gates .

I believe the housings they are doing will be in 0.73 and 0.94 A/R ratio , sort of the 73 for the GT3071R and the 94 for the GT3076R but they should interchange .

I'm sure a manifold and dump pipe to suit this housing on an RB six would not be too difficult to run up .

Cheers A .

PS don't know when they will be available , check with Garrett or GCG if need a time frame .

Not sure you'll do that much better with cams, I've got the same turbo but with the external gate and am making approx. the same power as you. I've also got Tomei 256/8.5's and a HKS cast low mount {extrude honed and HPC coated]. I have made almost 300 [so the set up has potential], but had to wind it back because of knock. Guilt Toy reckons it could be false knock because the PFC and the knock sensors are prone to false readings at anything over say230-250rwkw. But I'm not game to trust that line of thought with my motor. So what I'm saying is that knock levels are your ceiling, not the turbo or your other supports.

So I'm going to try WMI first and see what that does [Mafia likes it] to my knock levels. But I'm only playing cos I'll likely go 25/30 one day anyway.

Yeah WMI is a great option, i would use it but i could see myself forgetting to fill up with meth.

If we had e85 i would certainly be using that. Have you thought about that option also as there may be some available where you live?

You don't forget because you have a sensor that tells you when the reservoir is getting low [a pseudo fuel gauge]. The biggest downside is having to carry meth around. You do a 3,000km trip and have to make sure you pack enough methanol. The upside is, you only use it when you boost/injector impedance increases, so it is possible to do a 3,000 km trip and not use any at all [yeah right...lol].

I am not in a metro area, E85 is about as useless as an etag or surfboard out here. But you can get e10 everywhere now [i haven't bothered].

Yeah WMI is a great option, i would use it but i could see myself forgetting to fill up with meth.

If we had e85 i would certainly be using that. Have you thought about that option also as there may be some available where you live?

A simple float switch attached to a gauge/light in the cabin will let you know if you are running low.

Should you run out depending on the ecu you can either switch between fuel/ign maps (have one for WMI and one for without) or just remove some ignition timing if you have to thrash it. If you look into the kits most of the non budget ones come with an electronic controller that you can set to start injecting meth at what ever boost level you like, so depending on setup you may not start even using the meth until you hit 5-10psi of boost

Most kits come with a level indicator. You can get the 2 stage boost sensing unit ($680) or the 3 stage with both two stage boost and injector impedance ($950). I'm just now trying to dig up some details on the systems that goes deeper than the glossy brochure or the web site.

Esp. interested in the stage 3 kit and how it taps into the boost and injector cycle [for owner install]. I'm guessing that the boost is analogue via a hose 'T' into the the vacuum line, but the injector impedance would have to come from the loom or the ECU. Been emailing Snow Performance and VPW, still waiting on a reply that tells me what I want to know.

Sorry Patty for the OT.

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