Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I didn't know where else to start this thread and this was the closest one I could think of....Here's the sitch. Currently own R31 S3 Ti with RB25DET NEO (engineered) great looking car major head turner.....one of a kind

And now I'm looking at some R32 GTR's for sale which are relatively the same price I paid for the R31; or a little more dosh on top.

R32's for sale are pretty stockish....a few mods (exhaust, alarm, some have aftermarket turbo's, cooler, etc...no major mods)

Problem is...If i get the R32...I can't keep both as the running costs alone will leave me no space for bread and water LOL

My R31 Pro's and Cons:

+Unique car

+Major head turner

+Newish motor (55,000 k's- R31 body done about 260 odd)

+187rwkw @ 8psi, 212rwkw @ 13psi (on stock ECU)

+Parts for R31 are cheap

-Market value is less than 5,000

-make not built for that much power

-structurally unsafe (handling/body roll)

-Older model car

R32 GTR Pros and cons:

+Car I dreamt of having since my mid teens

+Built to handle high power output (not sure how much power 32 GTR's have at wheels on stock setup)

+More safe than the R31 (4WD, wider wheel base)

+Newer model car (better market value)

-Not as appealing as R31 (32's very common; not everyday u see a 31 like mine-don't mean to boast lol)

-K's ranging between 80k-150k

-insurance/running costs slightly more than 31

-If I buy this car I'll possibly be stuck with R31 and selling R31 at a price that not many ppl wanna buy for

What do u guys think? Is it worth the hassle and the extra money I'll be putting out?

I've attached the pic of my 31. I would have put up a pic of a 32 but we all know what they look like

post-59000-1232667707_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253795-r31-siii-ti-rb25det-neo-or-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

So do you mean you are upgrading or buying an additional car?

Either way a GTR that is cheap, is cheap for a reason... especially R32's. IMO if you are intending to get more power, then you want a R32 thats had a rebuild, by a decent/recognised builder and a aftermarket set of turbos, but thats just how i would do it because

1. Chasing power on a old bunky R32 RB26 is risky and could cause need for a rebuild

2. Factory ceramic turbos are again, risky and will cause you to need a rebuild

So as rebuild is the common theme and no less than 5-6k, you'd either buy a dead stock R32 GTR and leave it that way, or dont buy a R32 GTR at all...

but thats just what i think

So do you mean you are upgrading or buying an additional car?

Either way a GTR that is cheap, is cheap for a reason... especially R32's. IMO if you are intending to get more power, then you want a R32 thats had a rebuild, by a decent/recognised builder and a aftermarket set of turbos, but thats just how i would do it because

1. Chasing power on a old bunky R32 RB26 is risky and could cause need for a rebuild

2. Factory ceramic turbos are again, risky and will cause you to need a rebuild

So as rebuild is the common theme and no less than 5-6k, you'd either buy a dead stock R32 GTR and leave it that way, or dont buy a R32 GTR at all...

but thats just what i think

What I meant by that was upgrading. I'm not chasing power...just doing bolt on mods for the 32 would be good enuf for me (exhaust, cooler, pod filters, etc). And I definately don't wanna go out and spend the money on a rebuild. Even happy with a stocker.

Tho another question that I may ask all is....how much power does the R32 GTR produce atw stock? < or > my R31?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...