Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nope... its like us... as soon as we get em done we make em loud again :(

mine is JASMA approved cause it has an extra muffler... which im going to remove this weekend to see what she really sounds like :)

yeah mine is jasma complied

i removed that second muffler or resonator

it cost me 50 bucks to replace it with straight thru pipe

but man it sounds sooo much better now

idle is a lil louder but still quiet

but when you start revving it, man its sounds like a whole new exhaust. starting to get popping as well and more of a evident droning sound as opposed to before.

btw is it illegal to chop off the resonator thingy?

btw is there a difference between dump pipe and front pipe

or are they exactly the same thing?

cos i asked the guy that chopped off my resonator how much for a dump pipe

he said 220 fitted

im was like wtf that seems incredibly cheap

they are different... dump is the part off the turbo... front pipe is the pipe from the cat to the dump... well im pretty sure thats what they are... i brought a dump and front pipe in one for 200 from Steve (phat32) keep forgetting to call ICE to get it installed... they said it would only be about 80 to install.

Depends, some "dump" pipes are like one-piece from the turbo to the cat, others are split into two pieces where one is the "dump pipe" and the rest is the "front pipe".

Mine is like 2 pieces. Think it helps when you get a bigger turbo as rather than replacing the whole thing, you just replace the dump bit so it fits the new larger turbo.

ok so we took it to daalder on friday...

"no way"

was the response lol

in other words he said it was a waste of time welding a resonator in cause it wont make it the legal limit either rofl.

its cause its a fat straight pipe with a near hollow cannon on the end... its the end pipe that makes it so loud as well apparently...

oh well i didnt like the exhaust anyway i thought it looked ugly. Going to put something nice a polished and shiney on it once we get pass this EPA thing.

inark

i have a cat back HKS system, but recently replaced the rear canon with the standard muffler, i.e had an 's' pipe made to fit the standard muffler to the 3 1/2 inch HKS pipe and the results were amazing....took it from 100+ db to 84 db ......

so the rear muffler determines the loudness is my point.

I got done too.. EPA sent me a nice letter to tell me mine was too loud... pfft..

I didnt think mine was that loud...

Got it tested on Friday.. and its 95db.. :P

They are going to put a smaller resonator (spelling) on it :)

replacing the 3' with a 2'.. they said it shouldnt restrict it too much... What do you guys think???

permanently? i don't like it. That means you're effectively reducing the entire exhaust to 2". Get a 3" straight through resonator or a 'daalder magic resonator" (still 3") and get that put in the system under the car. That should bring 95dB down to 89.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...