Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK had very set ideas on suspension setup, always saying that spring rates were the

last thing that needed upgrading, and that sway bars were the key. (He would always

bring up Oran Park as the reason soft spring rates are necessary).

I wonder what he would say about these two flow diagrams which describe the tuning

process for an M3 CSL with three way adjustable shocks..

They are at the end of an illuminating PDF that has sat on the UK's foremost M3 tuning

shop.. (Thorney).

M3 is a rear wheel drive car and every car is going to be different but to me this flow diagram

looks applicable in general to any car with adjustments..

Notice that spring rates are NOT always the last on the list to get adjusted (firmer or softer).

post-51561-1232877468_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1232877480_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254115-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeh but they are talking about the order of adjustment, not the order of buying the parts. when u buy adjustable sway bars, alignment arms and adjustable shocks, it gives u the adjustment to play with the setup, to change spring rates u have to buy completely different springs.

What exactly are you trying to prove??

There are many different ways to sort suspension, this is obviously one way that one tunning shop uses.

I have several flow sheets similar to that with multiple different orders of importance.

Doesnt mean one is right or wrong.

I have several flow sheets similar to that with multiple different orders of importance.

Doesnt mean one is right or wrong.

Do you have one that is specific to skylines? perhaps you can post it?

I'm not trying to prove anything, but from past searches whenever suspension questions got raised the solution generally bogged down into the "sydneykid setup".. which is not available now. So I thought there should be some more info to go on.

Think the other thing to consider here is that different people like their cars to handle diferently and set the suspension up how they like, there is no set rule that MUST be followed...

Driver confidence goes a long way and thats achieved with the suspension being set up how the driver wants it, not the way that is considered "right"

I think that degree of variability is at the end. From stock I imagine most cars should get the same upgrades just like in the area of power: everyone improves a short list, the same way. And what to do first, middle and last is well understood.

But whatever.

Do you have one that is specific to skylines? perhaps you can post it?

I'm not trying to prove anything, but from past searches whenever suspension questions got raised the solution generally bogged down into the "sydneykid setup".. which is not available now. So I thought there should be some more info to go on.

since when is the "sydneykid setup" not available anymore? whiteline/selby still make sway bars, bilstein still make shocks, eibach/whiteline still make springs, whiteline still make alignment parts. the funny part is if u buy smart ull still pay less than what gary was charging in the group buy.

Do you have one that is specific to skylines? perhaps you can post it?

I'm not trying to prove anything, but from past searches whenever suspension questions got raised the solution generally bogged down into the "sydneykid setup".. which is not available now. So I thought there should be some more info to go on.

No I dont belevie in specific flow charts for specific cars. They should be seen as a guide and nothing more. Each to their own when it comes to sorting a car out.

I agree there is a criteria that people should follow when buying/upgrading parts. What you need is fairly set in stone much like engine modifications. However there is always a small minority that wont suit the general outlines. And when it comes to tuning the said parts it has to come back to the driver about any flow chart.

I know people who hire better drivers than themselves to steer the car and give input, I know people who strictly follow flow charts like that you posted, Personally, I occasoinally refer to charts but most of the time the order in which I adjust is predetermined by my own oppinion (which since im the driver is by far the most important)

I can be wrong and the car can go backwards but everything I do is logged and from mistakes I gain experiance.

Sound so oddly like something Gary once said to me.....

He has set ways for a reason. They work.

since when is the "sydneykid setup" not available anymore? whiteline/selby still make sway bars, bilstein still make shocks, eibach/whiteline still make springs, whiteline still make alignment parts. the funny part is if u buy smart ull still pay less than what gary was charging in the group buy.

You are correct the new colour of the selby bars is so much better than the canary yellow of the past too!

I bought Gary's kit for my 32 and I was very happy with it and even bought some bigger bars from him. Sure they took some time to get here but they did make it. I think more than sell parts Gary created a discussion about suspension and the use of Australian made/sourced parts that resulted in a lot of cars with better suspensions setups and more informed drivers.

I bought Gary's kit for my 32 and I was very happy with it and even bought some bigger bars from him. Sure they took some time to get here but they did make it. I think more than sell parts Gary created a discussion about suspension and the use of Australian made/sourced parts that resulted in a lot of cars with better suspensions setups and more informed drivers.

Which whiteline bits came in the kit if you don't mind me asking? did you get a product number list?

reason I'm asking is they sell more than few alternatives..

I used the front bushes at first but I ended up going for some Midori style arms...plenty adjustment :P . The GB thread has the info GB Info

As for the GB. I look at as a first step and really it is pretty much a freshen up deal for the R. I've since change and added other components...rear radius and control arms, tension rods etc. I thought the KTA117 adjustable rear upper radius arms made a big difference when I put the power down. That and the Nismo Pro TT Diff :D

I used the front bushes at first but I ended up going for some Midori style arms...plenty adjustment :P .
Where did you get the midori "style" stuff then?

I was looking at ARC (not the titanium ARC) in japan and they have some nice fully adjustable sway kits (in choice of colors!) but the price now is like 70,000 yen per end.

suspension is an easy 5 step process... just follow my flow diagram:

1. take car to centreline

2. give keys to chris

3. say "fixy fixy" and point at car

4. open wallet...

5. drive away happy

Everyone has to be good at something, no one can be an expert at everything. Your right, leave it to the experts. Any good suspension place can take your ideas about how you want the car to handle, and make it happen.

My advice is to do the lot in one go. Why stuff around adding bits and pieces and then paying over and over for allignments. Get it installed, get the right settings put in place and go racing!

suspension is an easy 5 step process... just follow my flow diagram:

1. take car to centreline

2. give keys to chris

3. say "fixy fixy" and point at car

4. open wallet...

5. drive away happy

6. complain about how much u spend on ur skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...