Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DSC_0848.jpg

DSC_0849.jpg

"I have 380mm rotors front and 355mm rotors rear, Brembo GT8 front, and Brembos from Porsche GT3 RS front, in the rear. Tilton pedal assembly"

DSC_0856.jpg

and wait for it....

DSC_0859.jpg

E39 M5 S62B50

Build thread:

http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23938

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254245-this-e30-m3-is-going-to-be-insane/
Share on other sites

So why has he god a Wilwood sticker if all the brakes aren't Wilwood? lol

Yes should be epic amounts of fun to keep straight

Would love to know more about the brake setup - its very similar to mine size wise but instead of brembos mine's apracing

Have been following that thread for a while...i just love those sorts of builds so much more then an RB30 in a purple air brushed Skyline that we get all too often in Aus

I had no idea you were a fan of the E30

LOL, i love E30s. My serious dream daily driver should i be able to find one is an E30 325is. Sadly they all seem to be have lowered, massive stereo and you know what i am saying :) Rather then the type of car my mates old man had which saw him get off with a warning doing 160km/h on Parramatta Rd in it on a test drive which happened to be my lift to work.

The only thing better then a neat 325is would be an E30 M3 but at the asking price of the few RHD you would have to go Cossie Sierra :mage:

But YES, E30 and E36 coupes...BIG FAN! :(

I much prefer the Australian way of modding BMWs...

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showroom/185...6-325i-20z.html

You know it's bad when Americans are teasing you about it...

Edited by Iron Chef
I much prefer the Australian way of modding BMWs...

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showroom/185...6-325i-20z.html

You know it's bad when Americans are teasing you about it...

LMAO! A the link you posted Iron Chef! Show pony much...

Mr. Oizo, that E30 with a 4.9lt V8 TT is just is friggin mad.

I usually don't like BBS wheels but these black ones with red lip around it looks great.

I much prefer the Australian way of modding BMWs...

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showroom/185...6-325i-20z.html

You know it's bad when Americans are teasing you about it...

You know what the worst part of that is, the owners name is John.

I much prefer the Australian way of modding BMWs...

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showroom/185...6-325i-20z.html

You know it's bad when Americans are teasing you about it...

...or perhaps Bavaria Cars Motorsport

www.bavariacars.com.au and [email protected] at 39 College St Gladesville

Oh dear!

What was that guy thinking?

I did enjoy the absolute pasting he received from th other BMW guys!!!

However, I think one of them missed the mark when they were talking about BMW being a luxury car etc etc, Dont get me wrong they do have some great luxury cars but... in Australia I see way too many 318i's with wind up windows, cloth interior and a young guy looking like hes driving an actual BMW...

If you get my drift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...