Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Running 2860-5 Or 2860-7 Turbos On Rb26?

unique1

By unique1,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

Hey i am about to put twin turbos back on my car after a problem with the single turbo conversion and the pits not passing it, now i cant decide between the 2860r - 5's or the -7's. I have a single gt3076r on the car now and its just not got enough power, its only making mid 300hp range though, im hoping for around the 420hp range or so with reasonable boost levels and not too much lag. I dare say the 3076r is too responsive, though it is a 3L bottom end, but im thinking of going back to the complete rb26 engine setup.

Now could any perth guys with preferably stock cammed rb26 take me for a 2 min drive to see how the lag is on the 2 different setups. Im mainly interested in the feel of the -5's, i have already been in a car with the -7s (though it was with poncams and built motor). Even a spin in a -7 equipped car with stock cams would be ideal, as i dont want to upgrade cams in near future.

I live in the northern suburbs (Joondalup area) but am willing to meet anywhere really, give me a PM if someone can possibly help.

cheers

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rev210 - its the 0.8 housing

Paul the tune is only a quick one (safe for the 150 000km old bottom end) and im trying to get the car over the pits at moment, its not on the good motor either, just a stock internal rb30 bottom end and stock rb26 head, motors not the healthiest lol, needs new rings, but i tried to get through the engineer with the single turbo and he said i need a 5 gas analyser test to pass, dont think its gonna happen, but if i go back to twins then i dont need the test. I have only drivin the gt3076r setup twice (too and from engineers on permits, because car is unregoed). Its running 17psi and a cheap used cat just to pass, also plumbed in screamer too, it should be making 400hp atleast on this boost but i left it safe as im just focusing on passing the rego stuff at moment. I just feel like its on boost at cruising speed which wont help my fuel economy etc, it whistles and makes so much spooling noise under 2000rpm it is abit much for me. I am used to the t04z power/lag so i have a different perception to alot of other people of power/lag haha.

Have u swapped the Z for the 3076r? or are u talking about your old engine setup from years ago? i assume your running the 1.0 housing for that power?

so its now either the -5's or -7's, and the weight of the car makes under 400hp feel like a slug to be honest, i need atleast 400hp to be slightly happy :D Im even stuck whether to keep the 3L or go back to the 2.6L bottom end as well. decisions decisions :(

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Rev210 - its the 0.8 housing

Paul the tune is only a quick one (safe for the 150 000km old bottom end) and im trying to get the car over the pits at moment, its not on the good motor either, just a stock internal rb30 bottom end and stock rb26 head, motors not the healthiest lol, needs new rings, but i tried to get through the engineer with the single turbo and he said i need a 5 gas analyser test to pass, dont think its gonna happen, but if i go back to twins then i dont need the test. I have only drivin the gt3076r setup twice (too and from engineers on permits, because car is unregoed). Its running 17psi and a cheap used cat just to pass, also plumbed in screamer too, it should be making 400hp atleast on this boost but i left it safe as im just focusing on passing the rego stuff at moment. I just feel like its on boost at cruising speed which wont help my fuel economy etc, it whistles and makes so much spooling noise under 2000rpm it is abit much for me. I am used to the t04z power/lag so i have a different perception to alot of other people of power/lag haha.

Have u swapped the Z for the 3076r? or are u talking about your old engine setup from years ago? i assume your running the 1.0 housing for that power?

so its now either the -5's or -7's, and the weight of the car makes under 400hp feel like a slug to be honest, i need atleast 400hp to be slightly happy :D Im even stuck whether to keep the 3L or go back to the 2.6L bottom end as well. decisions decisions :(

dont bother...just get guilt-toy to fly over and tune what you have...he can tune anything that will pass emissions.

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
Have u swapped the Z for the 3076r? or are u talking about your old engine setup from years ago? i assume your running the 1.0 housing for that power?

Yeah, swapped the Z for the 76r, trying to get more response for the track. Running the .82 housing.

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
Posted

I disagree, I have SS's (9's) which are slightly bigger than 7's and smaller than 5's.

I am spewing I went with the SS's. 400 rwhp (true hp on X-speed's dyno) is about the max from these things and I have all the supporting mods (everything!!)

Go the 5's, the lag will not be noticeable you will be fully on by 4,500 and let's face it, are you ever really going to be squirting below that anyway? at least with 5's it leaves you with plenty to go later on if you so choose (which you know you will)

5's all the way, or alternatively, buy the 5's and ill swap you my 500 km old SS's (installed new by X-speed and only running 17psi) plus $500

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guilt-Toy, the test i am not 100% sure on the exact details i sort of gave up the idea when the engineer mentioned it lol. He reckons the DPI said as of the 1st of Feb, i will require to do the IM240 (i think thats the name) test, but if i get in before then i only need the 5 gas one, i only got told yesterday arvo so i havent got time.

I might try and pass the pits without any mention of the turbo and see what happens, i can always throw the stock twins back on and pass and then put the gt30 back on, i just think its too slow at moment and was thinking recently to swap up to the gt3540 instead, but i havent even sorted this tune yet its all relying on the rego being sorted.

I am running an Autronic SMC ecu and stock gtr injectors, stock cams so it shouldnt be that extreme, i got a cat on it too, its not a compliance cat though.

This is the qoute from an engineer friend who contacted the DPI about the 5 gas test details....

"alternative to a full IM240 test is a 5gas analysis before and after test (5gas is HC, Co, CO2, 02 & NOx). You would need to find a standard car to test on the dyno at two or three load points then compare with measurements from your modified car. I can't see this being particularly economical, hire of a 5gas analyser, dyno and tuner to get your car to comply would be a headache, not to mention separate hire of a dyno and gas analyser to test the standard vehicle if you can find someone with a standard rb26. That said if you were able to pass these tests then you'd be in a very good position".

how hard would that be to tune and pass ?

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
stop convincing him to keep the single... he needs to buy something else so i can buy the 3076R off him. :yes:

lol i might just get engineer to sign everything off except the turbo and go to pits and see what happens. Even if the car doesnt pass ill throw the twins back on and get it through and then put gt30 back on after and when cops pull me over i show engineer permits for all the other stuff (lots of permits) and i doubt they will sticker it. I gotta try something after getting everything running nicely and finished. Gt35 will be on the cards im sure if single is passable :)

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
I disagree, I have SS's (9's) which are slightly bigger than 7's and smaller than 5's.

I am spewing I went with the SS's. 400 rwhp (true hp on X-speed's dyno) is about the max from these things and I have all the supporting mods (everything!!)

Thats a fair way short of their potential.

I bought a motor with a set of those that made over 400rwhp completely stock (and with a little wear) and at only 1 bar , on x-speed's dyno

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
Hey Guilt-Toy, the test i am not 100% sure on the exact details i sort of gave up the idea when the engineer mentioned it lol. He reckons the DPI said as of the 1st of Feb, i will require to do the IM240 (i think thats the name) test, but if i get in before then i only need the 5 gas one, i only got told yesterday arvo so i havent got time.

I might try and pass the pits without any mention of the turbo and see what happens, i can always throw the stock twins back on and pass and then put the gt30 back on, i just think its too slow at moment and was thinking recently to swap up to the gt3540 instead, but i havent even sorted this tune yet its all relying on the rego being sorted.

I am running an Autronic SMC ecu and stock gtr injectors, stock cams so it shouldnt be that extreme, i got a cat on it too, its not a compliance cat though.

This is the qoute from an engineer friend who contacted the DPI about the 5 gas test details....

"alternative to a full IM240 test is a 5gas analysis before and after test (5gas is HC, Co, CO2, 02 & NOx). You would need to find a standard car to test on the dyno at two or three load points then compare with measurements from your modified car. I can't see this being particularly economical, hire of a 5gas analyser, dyno and tuner to get your car to comply would be a headache, not to mention separate hire of a dyno and gas analyser to test the standard vehicle if you can find someone with a standard rb26. That said if you were able to pass these tests then you'd be in a very good position".

how hard would that be to tune and pass ?

go to the wreckers, and get one or 2 late model cat converters, im thinking 2006model or newer. if you run 2 of them then you should pass that easy test. even if you have one only try get a 2007 or 2008 model cat if you only have one, also run the car on e10 if you can.

what year model is this car? to tune for emissions you need a dyno and a 5gas which will need to be done for a IM240 test.

Pattygtst Veteran

Pattygtst

Posted
Posted (edited)

What am i missing here, that turbo is rated to 525hp. How is it possible for you to get that power? I have the seame turbo on my rb25 and i am getting 390rwhp

Or is there just that much extra power in the rb26 head with 3l bottom end?

Edited by Pattygtst

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...