Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the market for some tint & stockish tyres for the beast,

as usual do the search on the forum & go from there. Im liking Hankook 105s so give good ol recommended Tyre Power a buzz, $190 per corner but since your on SAU $165. Nice i thought but i'll give my local Bridgestone a buzz cos its 5mins from work & can't really be bothered with town today. Nice & helpful guys answers, sorry no discounts but my price is $145 per corner. This point i was :down:

Next to the tint, called Scorpion etc and was given the price of $250 which sounded good. Meh try my luck, called Mobiletek (also 5mins from work) & second thing i was asked was have i been quoted yet. Yes i say, $200 from tint-a-car BOOM price matched.

So is it really all about "who you know?"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254786-is-it-really-all-about-who-you-know/
Share on other sites

Tint @ Auto Perfection - say your from SAU and its $180 ;)

Cheers, I was about to start getting quotes for tint before this heat wave so when it's over I'll get it done

Edited by TALBO
group buy was actually $165 not sure what he is quoting nowadays so dont try and hold him to $180 either be warned

but Ric will certainly look after you just ask Blue32 :ermm:

$165! Yipes he mustv made close to nothing on that, anyone interested in group buy?

Can anyone post a pic of there silver skyline with 30% tint all round? Im aware of the legalities which is why i don't want to go as low as 20%, will attract too much attention.

30% at the front mate is too dark and so still illegal if at the back as well

the legal tint opacity is

front windows = 70% opacity

rear windows = 35% opacity

No tinting on the front or rear wind shield

i think i measured my front windows after taking the tint out and it came to 72% opacity

so your tinting cant be any more darker

No just going to mobiletek,

main north road is bit of a pain for me to get back to work. Thanks Krishy, yep i read up on all those percentages earlier & even so im going to go 35% all round & be confident to still pass as a "sleeper" :(

umm the boys at regency are very picky and the cops that defect you dont even have to measure the opacity

so you going 35% at the front will be heaps dark

when i got my tinting checked i had 19% opacity at the front

it was a pain to drive in the dark in rain thats for sure

had to drive with the windows down to see whats next to me

Im getting confused maybe...

I had 20% all round for my Honda Accord, that was extreme black but i could still see visibly be it rain or shine. It was Sungard like im going to get now, so im assuming going 35% all round on the liner would be a huge difference.

Im getting confused maybe...

I had 20% all round for my Honda Accord, that was extreme black but i could still see visibly be it rain or shine. It was Sungard like im going to get now, so im assuming going 35% all round on the liner would be a huge difference.

Just get it tested by one of those test meters

they stick it on your window and within 5 seconds it will tell you the opacity of your tint

i also had sunguard mate but mine was black as me lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...