Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys I want a few of these units

sigma_innovation-img600x450-12206206721xt5ce47705.jpg

sigma_innovation-img600x450-1220620672tos6ad47705.jpg

sigma_innovation-img600x450-1220620672qmp0ju47705.jpg

I'm attempting to rework a few for the Oz market. basically I'm fixing the FM radio and fixing them up.

if you have one I'd like to know. I do not want the the panasonic units (RM-W50SAS)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254855-wanted-clarion-oe-radios-ex-c34/
Share on other sites

make sure its the one above. there are two versions and they look IDENTICAL.

Oooh I'll check if I still have mine as it may have been thrown out. If not, all I have to do is figure out how much it will cost to send up to Queensland, and it's yours

ok

for those with PN2098E - that one is almost done. new FM front end and a few component changes sorts that side of things out.

band change is easy - getting the FM tuner to co-operate in the fun bit.

thanks go to 66yostagea!

Edited by Chris Rogers

Chris, are you going to want these for a while? or just want a couple so you can figure out what needs to be done to fix them up? i have one just like the one in your first post but i'm still using it, and will be for a couple more months until i get something else.

yep I'm goign to take a few of them. 2098s I dont mind. prefer if the CD section worked. one I redid today needs a laser I think and that is probably going to kill that unit.

would like to get a few of the later ones as the 2098 doesnt like my ipod box.

do you have one like in the top pic and if so do you know who made it? (PN2263E is what I'm chasing.)

acutally take a pic of it in situ. I have both versions here and I'll know the difference when I see it.

are there two different manufacturers for the same faced cd player?

anyway here is a pic of mine. just like the one in your first post.

but like i said, until i get something else to go in its place (a couple of months), im still using it. cd player fuction is good, even play burnt cds without an issue.

there is. pansonic make one that the chassis is identical apart from the rear of it. only difference I can see from the front is a silver volume knob.

yours looks to be a clarion.

if you have teh schematic for that unit - yes please. I have a local schematic for a PN 2371 on the way now.

as that sits ( I have been listening to it fo the past 3 hours now) its a IPOD patch that speaks nissan NBUS on the back of a reworked 2098E. for me it wil make a good test/bench radio.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...