Jump to content
SAU Community

Things To Look Out For When Buying A R34 Gtr Vspecii

Okonomiyaki
 Share

Recommended Posts

Okonomiyaki Apprentice

Okonomiyaki

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, i'm new to these forums and i'm about to purchase a R34 GTR VspecII, before i go ahead with the purchase i wanted to ask if there are any specific things i should look at on the car? I've checked for rust, engine condition, chassis rails, seals and paint. I've noticed that the LCD HUD screen on the GTR has 3 lines going down on it, it doesn't really bother me but the dealer said he'll replace it when i purchase the car but i dunno if i should get the replacement one or stay with the original one and try to lower the price, what do you think?

Thanks heaps for ur help!

Turbo Piston Community Regular

Turbo Piston

Posted
Posted

Look at the seats, make sure they are not worn. Look real close.

That sounds funny about the scree, I had the same problem, can you PM the car and dealer etc? Might be able to help you.

I ended up buying a new screen for $1400, but ask MONEYPIT he ended up buying the LCD for $80 and did it himself.

I highly recommend taking the GTR to someone that knows the engine. Make sure you get it inspected. Try and get one with the original ODO so the Km's haven't been changed.

Check the diffusers, make sure they are there front and back. All electrics work.

Check your PM, i will msg you.

eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
Hi everyone, i'm new to these forums and i'm about to purchase a R34 GTR VspecII, before i go ahead with the purchase i wanted to ask if there are any specific things i should look at on the car? I've checked for rust, engine condition, chassis rails, seals and paint. I've noticed that the LCD HUD screen on the GTR has 3 lines going down on it, it doesn't really bother me but the dealer said he'll replace it when i purchase the car but i dunno if i should get the replacement one or stay with the original one and try to lower the price, what do you think?

Thanks heaps for ur help!

well if you like car, id say just pay the deposit........and get him to replace it first........

can you imagine how hard it is to get him to replace it after you purchase it?

he could pack the dealership up and go home for all you know......

i recall one being sold at a wrecker who sold it on Ebay for 500$ US.......

theyre not cheap...........

eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
I think him not rushing into it is a pretty smart idea.

well i know what your trying to say

but i dont think i was pushing him anyway...

coz if you read his question

he was stating whether he should BUY the car and get replacement..(if he ment to replace himself or the dealership) OR... simply stay with the damaged MFD and try and bargain......

but as i metnioned.....

those things are not cheap....and can cost a fair bit to replace....

so if this guy who CLAIMS he can get it done.....then let him do so first....he may want a deposit first to get the ball rollin........

which dealership is it by the way?

Okonomiyaki Apprentice

Okonomiyaki

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Look at the seats, make sure they are not worn. Look real close.

That sounds funny about the scree, I had the same problem, can you PM the car and dealer etc? Might be able to help you.

I ended up buying a new screen for $1400, but ask MONEYPIT he ended up buying the LCD for $80 and did it himself.

I highly recommend taking the GTR to someone that knows the engine. Make sure you get it inspected. Try and get one with the original ODO so the Km's haven't been changed.

Check the diffusers, make sure they are there front and back. All electrics work.

Check your PM, i will msg you.

PM replied ;)

Thanks for the help so far guys. I already had a look at the car yesterday. The seats and interior seem very fresh. Though, the MFD does have 3 lines through it. But the dealer says he will fix/change that before I buy it. I'm not sure if I should let them change it or just leave it, change it myself when I buy it and get them to take some money off their asking price ($70k).

Its a 2001 model R34 GTR V-Spec II with 39,000kms on it by the way. All four wheels do have gutter rash but besides that and the MFD issue, there is really nothing else I could find wrong with it. Although, if I were to buy it, I would like to have it thoroughly inspected by a GTR specialist and also have it up on the hoist to have a look underneath for rust, accident signs etc..

$1400 isn't that bad for a new screen. I was expecting like $5k or something ridiculous like that.

By original ODO do you mean the one I sent you in the PM Turbo Piston? and not a Nismo 300km/h one or something. Isn't it still possible to change the kms anyway?? Just change out the dash with a lower km one if they really wanted to right?

I didn't check if the front diffuser was there. But I know the rear one is there for sure. I will have to check all the electrics next time I go there to see the Auction papers.

I requested for them yesterday but for some reason he didn't have them on hand which I found quite strange since they have all these imports in their yard/warehouse...Is this something to worry about?

I personally would like to see them but they can just be dodgied up cant they?

Anyways I have soo many questions, I don't really know where to start :)

Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate it ;)

Phil.

EDIT: Oh btw, my current car is still under finance so I am kind of forced into 1. finding a GTR at a dealer willing to accept my car as a trade.

2. finding a GTR that I can transfer my finance to.

Edited by Okonomiyaki
Turbo Piston Community Regular

Turbo Piston

Posted
Posted

Yea, original ODO comes with 180km/h speedo. The nismo ones comes with 320 km/h which means they have been changed. They will document it if they have changed it, so try and find those papers, if they don't, then they have probably swapped it for an ODO with lower K's, so check the car for wear and tear and hopefully it matches up to the K's on the dash. My car came with 47,000Kms, original dash, and the carpets and seats are mint!

When something is missing, double check everything! Ooops I can't find it would worry me!

Keep asking questions anyway, we'll try and help you out as much as possible!

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted

Carpets, seats, steering wheel, gear knob, hell almost everything can be changed to make the entire package look fresh. Honestly I wouldn't regard ANY odometer as a basis for it's general condition or wear and tear unless if it has the original documentation and log books, then it's a bonus. If not, then you need to assess the car based on other things like:

- Underbody rust which is quite common with these cars. Some dealers i've seen spray the entire underbody black to hide rust.

- Check the bushes, see if they are rooted. A lot of the bushes have fluid in them and when they leak , you know it needs to be replaced.

- Check the panels have good alignment.

- Check the paintwork is original.

- Check for engine, g/b, transfer case, diff leaks.

- When to test drive it, check for steering response, tramlining, things like that.

- Check the Attesa is funtioning properly but doing a hard launch and observing the torque split meter

- Check the wheels bearings are ok cause those things are not cheap to replace.

I can go on and on for things to look out for, but in the end if you're not competent, I would take it to a workshop that knows their GTR's.

gtr13 Proficient

gtr13

Posted
Posted

Just on the lines on the screen do they go away, come up in different spots are they vertical and change colour green red purple etc mine comes up with a line every now and then shut the car down and restart it sometimes they go or come back in a differenet spot, spoke to some of the guys on the uk gtr forum and several have the same problem i have never really bothered with it and i have had mine for over 3 years now i would say just get a quote and tell the dealer to take that off the price and learn to live with it.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The lines on the screen are permanant unfortunately, but you can get the repalcement Toshiba screen from the US for about $150 which is pretty good considering they still sell on yahoo.jp for $500+

It's a fairly generic screen, not Nissan specific :)

rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
The lines on the screen are permanant unfortunately, but you can get the repalcement Toshiba screen from the US for about $150 which is pretty good considering they still sell on yahoo.jp for $500+

It's a fairly generic screen, not Nissan specific :)

If anyone wants a new screen I have a spare, $150 AUD

takes about 10 minutes to replace it. I did mine.. works like a charm.

on yahoo it is about 20,000 yen.

cheers

Okonomiyaki Apprentice

Okonomiyaki

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thx for all the help guys!!! :)

I've made a checklist with all the info that you've given me and i'll go into the dealer to inspect it once again!!!

The three lines one the screen are white and permanent... i turned the ignition on and off a few times and it just stays there... :)

Called up the dealer today and he said "unfortunately we didn't get the log books..."

Once again, i greatly appreciate all your help and advice...

Edited by Okonomiyaki
eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
Also, look for shit marks on the passenger seat... for when the passenger has shit himself/herself/itself from being in one of these mighty machines at full boost.

well if your gonna check that out

you may as well tell him to check for cum stains for the backseat for the chicks he picked up......

(japs love Creampies and Bukkake) lol

rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
Who is this dealership and which state are u from. For 70k it better be a damn good example as there's been a few that has been sold for way less than that.
70k I honestly would walk away, if it has no history.

I had a similar "guys in a warehouse" close encounter with a similarly priced Nur (and this was a Nur! and before the financial crisis!) and got the "oh we don't have the papers from the japanese side" story.

Yeah, believe me, if the papers had anything good on them, they'd be in the office and the first thing they'd show you.

Turned out the car was sold to them from a mob in Japan that specialized in accident damaged cars.. they were experts in cleaning cars up and presenting them as low km, "perfect" examples (just with no docs).

Run away,

place an advert in WTB putting up your 70k and asking for local sellers. my bet is you'll find a great example for the money, and probably

with improvements you'll end up buying anyway, owned by some OCD type person who has spent as much on it as they originally bought it for.

eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
70k I honestly would walk away, if it has no history.

I had a similar "guys in a warehouse" close encounter with a similarly priced Nur (and this was a Nur! and before the financial crisis!) and got the "oh we don't have the papers from the japanese side" story.

Yeah, believe me, if the papers had anything good on them, they'd be in the office and the first thing they'd show you.

Turned out the car was sold to them from a mob in Japan that specialized in accident damaged cars.. they were experts in cleaning cars up and presenting them as low km, "perfect" examples (just with no docs).

Run away,

place an advert in WTB putting up your 70k and asking for local sellers. my bet is you'll find a great example for the money, and probably

with improvements you'll end up buying anyway, owned by some OCD type person who has spent as much on it as they originally bought it for.

how did you find out about the car and its history?

i guess some of the Low Km models are infact repair damaged with new or swapped instrument clusters

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted
how did you find out about the car and its history?

i guess some of the Low Km models are infact repair damaged with new or swapped instrument clusters

i

Actually, any digital odometer can be wound back with a device. It's easier than winding back an analogue one.

croat Mentor

croat

Posted
Posted

I recall there being a thread around which looked at all the things to look for when buying a GTR/Skyline etc.. Strange i just saw this as i was just looking for that thread. Will definately help! Anyone know where it is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...