Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

have up for sale my hks cast low mount external gate manifold.

said above is basically it, um its covered in some kind of high temp coating, and is in practically new condition. fairly rare, i kno i hadnt seen one of this till i had one.

please note, this item is for r33 rb25det, i had slight problems with mounting it to my r32 rb25, changing the position on the turbo made it foul on my chassis rail and strut tower (view relevant pics). actualli when u look at it, its only the actuator that was making the trouble, my plan was to block off the ext gate part and run an internal... anyways depends what turbo u wanna run as to what will fit in what and all that jazz...

THIS IS MADE FOR AN R33 RB25DET, if u wanna try and put in on something else its up to you :(

post-36971-1233665882_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665935_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665982_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665764_thumb.jpg

cost - $600 firm.

history - bought this item early december from a fellow sau member, from my knowledge he never used it, and cant remember where he got it from. my plans were to put it on my r32 rb25, however as stated above, this manifold was designed for an r33 engine bay, in mine there is simply not enough room.

reason for sale - as stated above, didnt suit the application i intended it to. now im in the process of changing to top mount.

location - adelaide (north east).

p/up or delivery - would obviously prefer a local buyer, but if not freight can be arranged at buyers cost.

contact - ben (me) via pm, message here or call or txt me on 0438554500

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255468-hks-cast-manifold-r33-rb25det/
Share on other sites

if someone can confirm it will fit rb20 im interested

the bolt pattern ie manifold-engine is exactly the same for rb20/25.

depends what turbo setup you want to use :)

as you can see my poor choice of trying to use internally gated did not work so well.

if u bolt an externally gated turbo you will have alot more room down stairs than i did.

Edited by theminuz

For the record i've got one of these manifolds fitted to my r34 rb25neo using an old hks t3 turbo. We had to shave the engine mount slightly but it fitted up easy enough. It's a great upgrade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...