Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Nismo G-max Twin Platted Clutch

JJay
 Share

Recommended Posts

JJay Proficient

JJay

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got a Nismo G-Max twin platted clutch for sale (originally I thought this was a coppermix, it's not, it's a G-MAX one).

It does need rebuilding and this can be done through NPC if requested for me to have it rebuilt for you.

It's come out of a R33 GTR Skyline.

This is a pull type clutch and will fit into any R33 & R34 GT-R Skyline or can have it built to a R34 GTT Skyline.

Asking $1500 for this which includes the rebuild.

or $700 as it is not rebuilt.

Postage to anywhere in Australia is about $50.

The rebuild will be built to handle anywhere up to 1000HP.

These clutches come stock with the ability to handle around 700-750HP.

Want to sell this as soon as possible. It's located here in Brisbane.

Interested?? PM ME!!!!

Edited by JJay
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255559-fs-nismo-g-max-twin-platted-clutch/
Share on other sites
JJay Proficient

JJay

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My offer of $1000 is still on the table as thats what you quoted me

I accepted that when I thought it was a nismo coppermix one which is what I got told it was from the previous owner.

After taking it to NPC, they told me it was actually a G-MAX one, far better then the coppermix one itself.

No way am I paying near $900 for the rebuild and only making $100 from the clutch when it's worth more then that.

JJay Proficient

JJay

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
so this is the same clutch you were selling for $1000. for a min there i thought you were selling 2.

No, not the same one.

Originally I thought it was a coppermix clutch as that what was told to me by the guy who sold me the car with the clutch.

Since taking it out and having it looked at, it's actually a NISMO G-MAX clutch, not a coppermix clutch.

The G-MAX clutch is far better then the coppermix clutch and it does cost more.

NPC told me that these are valued at around $3000-$3200 brand new.

Also been told stock, they hold anywhere between 700-750hp.

So asking $1500 for it rebuilt (it's costing nearly $900 to have it rebuilt by NPC) isn't much considering your practically getting a brand new nismo g-max clutch!

I've actually asked for the coppermix clutch thread's to be deleted since I do not have a coppermix clutch to sell.

Edited by JJay
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

bloody hell u guys...it is what it is...a good price for a good clutch, if you dont like it then stop complinaing and dont buy it.

bump for a good price and a good lutch.

JJay Proficient

JJay

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'd like to know where you got the idea that a G-Max is far better than a Super Coppermix clutch.

based on the information i've been given by both a mechanic and NPC themselves.

And also whey the rebuild price doubled...... i don't understand how the rebuild price can be that different

Go ring NPC and ask for the price on the rebuild of the nismo g-max clutch and then come back to me.

the price i'm getting for the rebuild is at trade price, you ring up and they'll charge you through the roof (probably near or just over a grand for the rebuild).

Just because your pissed that I changed the price on the clutch doesn't mean you can come in here and start causing shit. If I knew it was a G-MAX clutch in the first place, then I would of advertised it as that. But since the person who sold it to me miss-informed me of what clutch was actually in there, it was initally advertised as the coppermix one.

No way will I sell the clutch for $1000 including the rebuild. That just means I'm paying near $900 for the rebuild and only making $100 from it. Seriously think about what your offering there.

jockwog21 Newbie

jockwog21

Posted
Posted
Got a Nismo G-Max twin platted clutch for sale (originally I thought this was a coppermix, it's not, it's a G-MAX one).

It does need rebuilding and this can be done through NPC if requested for me to have it rebuilt for you.

It's come out of a R33 GTR Skyline.

This is a pull type clutch and will fit into any R33 & R34 GT-R Skyline or can have it built to a R34 GTT Skyline.

Asking $1500 for this which includes the rebuild.

or $700 as it is not rebuilt.

Postage to anywhere in Australia is about $50.

The rebuild will be built to handle anywhere up to 1000HP.

These clutches come stock with the ability to handle around 700-750HP.

Want to sell this as soon as possible. It's located here in Brisbane.

Interested?? PM ME!!!!

Dude, still waiting for my refund for the fuel pump i didn't receive. What's going on??

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
Still have this for sale and I want it gone.

Make me a reasonable offer to consider.

This clutch is great for upgrades with R33 & R34 GTR's & R34 GTT's.

is this push or pull clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...