Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was hoping to accompany the help of u guys to help me find threads that will help me with my rb25det conversion into my r32 gtst. iv found one thread so far but it doesnt really help u just tells u a bit of what needs to be done. if there is a step by step procudeure or detailed description of what needs to be done very grsateful if u could post it up so i can get my conv done asap so i get the driftpig back out of track

thanx guys

Edited by Harry-Hotpants
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255617-rb25det-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

Remove RB20.

Drop RB25 in (complete with RB25 engine harness and ecu).

Connect everything.

Drive away.

If you want to do the gearbox aswell, there are many threads in the Drivetrain section in regards to putting 25t gearboxes in R32 GTSt's.

Use the same mounts but use the RB25 engine harness and ECU (ecu obviously but I think the difference between the harness is the injectors wires are the other way round or something like that).

Climate control should be fine, haven't heard otherwise.

If you really wanted to, you could swap the wires to the injectors and run it on the RB20 ECU (as it is easier to remap) but you wouldn't have VVT.

Greg, same *should* apply to your GTS4. Just re-use all the mounts etc, though I'm not sure if there would be any dramas with the RB25 ecu needing to talk to the ATTESSA computer at all..

We put a twincam 30 in my mates GTS4 but I believe that is running on a GTR powerfc.

I would also not bother with the dualstage solenoid boost control (stock 33 setup), just put your RB20 actuator on and plumb straight to that.

Edited by bubba

bubba: in regards to the physical work im 100% clued in its the wiring changes that have to be made re: rb25 engien loom connecting to r32 body loom and also what is to be done re: changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash etc

If you already know what needs to be done, why were you asking then?

What exactly do you mean about changing speedo cable to electronic for the dash?

Are you putting a 25t gearbox in too?

It's not rocket doctory :)

If he's keeping his RB20 gearbox then he doesn't need to change anything.

If he is putting a 25t box in then he can't re-use the RB20 sender.

I'm not exactly sure what he was getting at with the sender question, hence why I asked for clarification :banana:

Edited by bubba

yeh i am putting in the rb25 box in aswell. i didnt kno whether the rb20 ccable will mate into the rb25 box of if i have to use the electronic setup from the rb25 box and make changes with my cluster. i need to kno what changes need to be made regarding mating the rb25 engine loom to the r32 chassis loom etc.

also "cmoney" ur link isnt working for me.... :domokun:

Edited by Harry-Hotpants

Have you searched at all dude? I know there's at least one thread on RB25 into R32 and I know there's a few threads on 25t boxes into R32 GTSt's, in those I, among others, documented what we did.

No offence mate but the search function is there for a reason.. so we don't have to keep typing out essays :( if you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM :)

i believe this is what you are looking for

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...RB25+conversion

btw, if u are looking for a 25det pfc and wiring harness, ill have one mid year for sale

Edited by ahh 33 s2

bubba i am specifically looking for the changes that may/need to be made in regards to the rb25 engine loom into the r32 body loom, that is what i have not yet been able to find. i did state that above

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...amp;pid=4378780

Wiring

Wiring is pretty straight forward if you have the correct diagrams and ecu pin outs. I'd recommend using the RB25 loom and ECU, which is what I used. This a) allows easy engineering to meet polution standards b) Allows you to run the cheaper and more readily available RB25 powerFC. Once you can get the stock ECU working fine, just drop in the PowerFc and it should work right away.

I won't go through the whole lot here, but a few things to note.

1. Grey wire near the main engine bay plug is your 12v constant injector feed. Make sure this is hooked up to a 12v line. Without this the car won't start.

2. It's not a bad idea to splice in your original engine bay resistor (passenger strut tower, silver block thing) from the rb20 loom back through the firewall and to the thick black and white wires of the r32 body loom. This provides backup ground to your fuel pump incase you lose the grounding in the boot area. It will work without it, but is a valuable safety measure which is worth keeping if you value the engine.

3. Use the O2 sensor from an RB25. I believe the R32 one is different. Effects fuel economy

4. To get the wipers working, you can use the r33 loom plug as a direct fit into your wiper.

There is another plug nearby which looks similar. You'll need to connect the orange in this plug as well or your wipers won't turn off once turned on until IGN is turned off Cut the orange up near the plug, and run a wire to this through the firewall, and this connects to one of the wider R32 body loom plugs. There is like a thick orange and a thick green next to each other. Connect this to the orange. This turns the wipers off when you whack the wiper switch back to "off". Took a while to work this out.

You also need to attach 12v IGN source to blue w/ red stripe on that plug. Hook the black with silver blotches to GND (or chasis).

The rest of the r33 plug is 'spare' and the other wires can be left disconnected down near the r33 ecu part of the loom as well.. On the R33 it connects to a brown junction box on the passenger side...but on the R32, this is on the driver side and can stay there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...