Jump to content
SAU Community

Hub Centric Spacers

DAS KAMU
 Share

Recommended Posts

JLTS13 Enthusiast

JLTS13

Posted
Posted

hub centric spacers are better then normal spacers but still illegal on the street, better off getting correct offset rims for complete peace of mind.

Are they bolt on spacers and how wide are they? if not bolt on and just slip on, you will need longer wheel studs so the wheel nut still has enough thread.(lve seen what happens if they dont)

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

im thinking of putting on 15mm hubcentric spacers from justjap on my rear wheels too ..bit worried about the safety aspect of it too. I guess my main concern is the nuts coming off ..but that should be easily fixed with thread tape/locktight (or whatever its called) but theres still the chance of the studs on the spacers being shit quality and breaking (unlike the high quality factory ones) as most of them would be coming from china...

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

10mm is a wierd size, 10mm is more common as a slip on spacer, but for 10mm slip on ull probably need extended studs. 20mm is the minimum id feel comfortable as a bolt on, as the smaller it is the less meat there is to give a strong mechanical connection.

it also comes down to the wheel, anything smaller than 25mm in bolt on will need cavities in the back of the wheel between the stud holes as ur standard studs are 25mm long, so they will protrude out of the spacer.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted
10mm is a wierd size, 10mm is more common as a slip on spacer, but for 10mm slip on ull probably need extended studs. 20mm is the minimum id feel comfortable as a bolt on, as the smaller it is the less meat there is to give a strong mechanical connection.

it also comes down to the wheel, anything smaller than 25mm in bolt on will need cavities in the back of the wheel between the stud holes as ur standard studs are 25mm long, so they will protrude out of the spacer.

oh yeah I forgot about the adapter thickness and original studs sticking out .. 25mm would be a bit too extreme for me I think as the wheels would stick out too much. How hard is it to cut 1cm off of the original studs so they can fit with 15mm adapters? would there be enough thread left for them to hold the adapter safely??

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
oh yeah I forgot about the adapter thickness and original studs sticking out .. 25mm would be a bit too extreme for me I think as the wheels would stick out too much. How hard is it to cut 1cm off of the original studs so they can fit with 15mm adapters? would there be enough thread left for them to hold the adapter safely??

i wouldnt reccomend it.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted
what a PITA .. wish I'd hadn't pussied out when I was buying my wheels and just got wider at the back .. I thought 9.5" would be too wide but it'd be perfect :huh:

What offset did you get for rear? the +29, 8.5" all round? I thought they would be a good choice too with 245/40/18's.

JLTS13 Enthusiast

JLTS13

Posted
Posted

on my old R33 l used bolt on hub centric 10mm spacers they came with special flatter and tapered wheel nuts so they sat flush, l also didnt need to cut any stud off, but my rays rims(18x9 +20, gtr rear guards on gtst) had quite large dished sections where the studs went.

But trust me l never felt safe driving on them it was always playing on my mine. ; will never use them again l just got the right offset this time round.

And yes l would highly recomend using locktight(threadlocker) on the inside wheel nuts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...