Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hub centric spacers are better then normal spacers but still illegal on the street, better off getting correct offset rims for complete peace of mind.

Are they bolt on spacers and how wide are they? if not bolt on and just slip on, you will need longer wheel studs so the wheel nut still has enough thread.(lve seen what happens if they dont)

im thinking of putting on 15mm hubcentric spacers from justjap on my rear wheels too ..bit worried about the safety aspect of it too. I guess my main concern is the nuts coming off ..but that should be easily fixed with thread tape/locktight (or whatever its called) but theres still the chance of the studs on the spacers being shit quality and breaking (unlike the high quality factory ones) as most of them would be coming from china...

10mm is a wierd size, 10mm is more common as a slip on spacer, but for 10mm slip on ull probably need extended studs. 20mm is the minimum id feel comfortable as a bolt on, as the smaller it is the less meat there is to give a strong mechanical connection.

it also comes down to the wheel, anything smaller than 25mm in bolt on will need cavities in the back of the wheel between the stud holes as ur standard studs are 25mm long, so they will protrude out of the spacer.

10mm is a wierd size, 10mm is more common as a slip on spacer, but for 10mm slip on ull probably need extended studs. 20mm is the minimum id feel comfortable as a bolt on, as the smaller it is the less meat there is to give a strong mechanical connection.

it also comes down to the wheel, anything smaller than 25mm in bolt on will need cavities in the back of the wheel between the stud holes as ur standard studs are 25mm long, so they will protrude out of the spacer.

oh yeah I forgot about the adapter thickness and original studs sticking out .. 25mm would be a bit too extreme for me I think as the wheels would stick out too much. How hard is it to cut 1cm off of the original studs so they can fit with 15mm adapters? would there be enough thread left for them to hold the adapter safely??

oh yeah I forgot about the adapter thickness and original studs sticking out .. 25mm would be a bit too extreme for me I think as the wheels would stick out too much. How hard is it to cut 1cm off of the original studs so they can fit with 15mm adapters? would there be enough thread left for them to hold the adapter safely??

i wouldnt reccomend it.

what a PITA .. wish I'd hadn't pussied out when I was buying my wheels and just got wider at the back .. I thought 9.5" would be too wide but it'd be perfect :huh:

What offset did you get for rear? the +29, 8.5" all round? I thought they would be a good choice too with 245/40/18's.

on my old R33 l used bolt on hub centric 10mm spacers they came with special flatter and tapered wheel nuts so they sat flush, l also didnt need to cut any stud off, but my rays rims(18x9 +20, gtr rear guards on gtst) had quite large dished sections where the studs went.

But trust me l never felt safe driving on them it was always playing on my mine. ; will never use them again l just got the right offset this time round.

And yes l would highly recomend using locktight(threadlocker) on the inside wheel nuts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...