Jump to content
SAU Community

Help :( R32 Hard Brake Pedal, Can't Find Out What It Causing It.


Recommended Posts

Heres the story:

Bought an unreg R32 GTS4 that had been sitting for a while. And now it wants to go over the pits and has failed twice for a hard brake pedal. So far this has been done:

Brakes bled

Front & Rear calipers reconditioned

New pads fitted

Master cylinder reconditioned

Rotors skimmed

Brake booster pressure tested

The brakes react to first part of pedal travel but go solid when trying to press hard, ie in a emergency stop. This is why pits said they won't pass it.

NOTE: Car has factory ABS fitted.

So far, can't get rid of the hard pedal. Beginning to suspect while booster has passed pressure test, it is miss-performing. Has anybody got one that they can lend me to test? Or if it comes to it, anyone have a good condition one to sell?

Anybody had this problem before? (Rmb ABS fitted)

0431 985 155 is my dad's phone number (Tony).

(I'm still on Ls)

Sounds like air in the system,

But if you have bled them, it should of corrected the problem.

There is a particular way you bleed the brakes with ABS as well.

Not sure if that is just for GTR though.

Other than that, I am stumped!

Yeah, it's been done by my mechanic who used to do ferraris lambos tractors :thumbsup: (ex-barbagello) etc etc, basically fixes anything, except my line!

It doesn't feel like air cause if just driving normally, they are fine. Its when you brake to a certain point that it becomes rock solid and you really have to press hard for the car to stop. (Don't get me wrong, it stops really well, its just the hard pedal) The guy at the pits said sure, your average joe could stop the car, but he's referring to when say eg a girl is driving and they can't press the pedal, ie making it too dangerous.

I want the car on the road :| This is the only thing stopping it and its starting to annoy the hell out of me. Stupid skylines :P

Edited by Ten Four

Doesn sound like air in the system, that gives the opposite effect. You put your foot an the brake and nothing happens for a while because you're compressing the air.

Sadly, I cant think of what it might be.

Rhys,

Air in the system can in fact cause block peddle mate,

I understanded where you are coming from,

But to discount air from the system completely at this stage, may in fact lead you down the incorrect path.

There is a sequence that you have to bleed the brakes with ABS in a skyline if it is to be done properly.

There is write up for this in the GTR Manual that can be found online.

Once you have cleared the system completely, then can you move onto the next fault finding excercise.

Nav had a very similiar issue with his car.

Cheers

Mike

Thanks for the replies guys.

Flash, it's not much different, both on and off are pretty hard.

Mike, where is this guide? Otherwise the air has been pretty much discounted at this stage. Its acting more like the booster so I'm going to try get one (to a point its fine, after that its just hard). Cause the car still stops really well, its just the firm pedal.

Defective, the lines are not twisted or split cause each was tested. Brake fluid was replaced earlier today.

Ahh 33, I think I may just do that, thanks.

Edited by Ten Four

Have you tried taking it and stopping by a couple of performance workshops to get their opinion on what it could be? They might have come across this issue before and know the solution.

Yeah mate, as a last resort I will probably end up taking it to a performance workshop. I'm sure the problem is something silly. If the brake boosters I've just bought and the disabling the ABS don't fix it, I'll take it to one.

The brakes react to first part of pedal travel but go solid when trying to press hard, ie in a emergency stop. This is why pits said they won't pass it.

Who idea was it to do the above mentioned repairs ??

Get a Brake specialist to check it out . ( a good one also )

Rhys,

Air in the system can in fact cause block peddle mate,

I understanded where you are coming from,

But to discount air from the system completely at this stage, may in fact lead you down the incorrect path.

There is a sequence that you have to bleed the brakes with ABS in a skyline if it is to be done properly.

There is write up for this in the GTR Manual that can be found online.

Once you have cleared the system completely, then can you move onto the next fault finding excercise.

Nav had a very similiar issue with his car.

Cheers

Mike

Mmm i know you might be the guy who gave me the warn on this but ima have to say fail on that one aye, as a mechanic i can say that air in system will cause a spongey pedal and lesser response upon application

Its sounding more like booster but also check where the vacuum line connects to the manifold, start it with that line off and make sure its sucking in air, also check that the booster vacuum hose isnt sucking closed under vacuum when you push the pedal

Dsturbed, the car had been sitting for 1.5 years so the above jobs were done as to be expected. However, it didn't change the brakes much.

Takushi, that has been done a few days ago.

Update: it isn't the ABS.....

Edited by Ten Four

Hey might sound odd but can you post up a pic of the brake booster....

i had a brake specialist test my old TX-5 booster and it was fine then i had the same problem..

i found there was a one way valve in the booster due to boost and it was the wrong way around :D so please check you dont have one or it is the right way around.... also you say you tested the line,,, did you actually start the car with a vacume tester on it then rev to boost to see the difference?? and what was the difference??

Hi guys, problem seems to have been solved.

Previously, the master cylinder must have been taken apart as a washer was missing and the piston was bigger than usual (looked like nothing was out of place...). Replaced washer and put a shorter piston and it seems to have solved the problem. In essence, the car still brakes just as well as before, just with a softer pedal now.

Will be visiting the pits tomorrow.. Cheers.

Edited by Ten Four
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...