Jump to content
SAU Community

Help :( R32 Hard Brake Pedal, Can't Find Out What It Causing It.


Recommended Posts

Heres the story:

Bought an unreg R32 GTS4 that had been sitting for a while. And now it wants to go over the pits and has failed twice for a hard brake pedal. So far this has been done:

Brakes bled

Front & Rear calipers reconditioned

New pads fitted

Master cylinder reconditioned

Rotors skimmed

Brake booster pressure tested

The brakes react to first part of pedal travel but go solid when trying to press hard, ie in a emergency stop. This is why pits said they won't pass it.

NOTE: Car has factory ABS fitted.

So far, can't get rid of the hard pedal. Beginning to suspect while booster has passed pressure test, it is miss-performing. Has anybody got one that they can lend me to test? Or if it comes to it, anyone have a good condition one to sell?

Anybody had this problem before? (Rmb ABS fitted)

0431 985 155 is my dad's phone number (Tony).

(I'm still on Ls)

Sounds like air in the system,

But if you have bled them, it should of corrected the problem.

There is a particular way you bleed the brakes with ABS as well.

Not sure if that is just for GTR though.

Other than that, I am stumped!

Yeah, it's been done by my mechanic who used to do ferraris lambos tractors :thumbsup: (ex-barbagello) etc etc, basically fixes anything, except my line!

It doesn't feel like air cause if just driving normally, they are fine. Its when you brake to a certain point that it becomes rock solid and you really have to press hard for the car to stop. (Don't get me wrong, it stops really well, its just the hard pedal) The guy at the pits said sure, your average joe could stop the car, but he's referring to when say eg a girl is driving and they can't press the pedal, ie making it too dangerous.

I want the car on the road :| This is the only thing stopping it and its starting to annoy the hell out of me. Stupid skylines :P

Edited by Ten Four

Doesn sound like air in the system, that gives the opposite effect. You put your foot an the brake and nothing happens for a while because you're compressing the air.

Sadly, I cant think of what it might be.

Rhys,

Air in the system can in fact cause block peddle mate,

I understanded where you are coming from,

But to discount air from the system completely at this stage, may in fact lead you down the incorrect path.

There is a sequence that you have to bleed the brakes with ABS in a skyline if it is to be done properly.

There is write up for this in the GTR Manual that can be found online.

Once you have cleared the system completely, then can you move onto the next fault finding excercise.

Nav had a very similiar issue with his car.

Cheers

Mike

Thanks for the replies guys.

Flash, it's not much different, both on and off are pretty hard.

Mike, where is this guide? Otherwise the air has been pretty much discounted at this stage. Its acting more like the booster so I'm going to try get one (to a point its fine, after that its just hard). Cause the car still stops really well, its just the firm pedal.

Defective, the lines are not twisted or split cause each was tested. Brake fluid was replaced earlier today.

Ahh 33, I think I may just do that, thanks.

Edited by Ten Four

Have you tried taking it and stopping by a couple of performance workshops to get their opinion on what it could be? They might have come across this issue before and know the solution.

Yeah mate, as a last resort I will probably end up taking it to a performance workshop. I'm sure the problem is something silly. If the brake boosters I've just bought and the disabling the ABS don't fix it, I'll take it to one.

The brakes react to first part of pedal travel but go solid when trying to press hard, ie in a emergency stop. This is why pits said they won't pass it.

Who idea was it to do the above mentioned repairs ??

Get a Brake specialist to check it out . ( a good one also )

Rhys,

Air in the system can in fact cause block peddle mate,

I understanded where you are coming from,

But to discount air from the system completely at this stage, may in fact lead you down the incorrect path.

There is a sequence that you have to bleed the brakes with ABS in a skyline if it is to be done properly.

There is write up for this in the GTR Manual that can be found online.

Once you have cleared the system completely, then can you move onto the next fault finding excercise.

Nav had a very similiar issue with his car.

Cheers

Mike

Mmm i know you might be the guy who gave me the warn on this but ima have to say fail on that one aye, as a mechanic i can say that air in system will cause a spongey pedal and lesser response upon application

Its sounding more like booster but also check where the vacuum line connects to the manifold, start it with that line off and make sure its sucking in air, also check that the booster vacuum hose isnt sucking closed under vacuum when you push the pedal

Dsturbed, the car had been sitting for 1.5 years so the above jobs were done as to be expected. However, it didn't change the brakes much.

Takushi, that has been done a few days ago.

Update: it isn't the ABS.....

Edited by Ten Four

Hey might sound odd but can you post up a pic of the brake booster....

i had a brake specialist test my old TX-5 booster and it was fine then i had the same problem..

i found there was a one way valve in the booster due to boost and it was the wrong way around :D so please check you dont have one or it is the right way around.... also you say you tested the line,,, did you actually start the car with a vacume tester on it then rev to boost to see the difference?? and what was the difference??

Hi guys, problem seems to have been solved.

Previously, the master cylinder must have been taken apart as a washer was missing and the piston was bigger than usual (looked like nothing was out of place...). Replaced washer and put a shorter piston and it seems to have solved the problem. In essence, the car still brakes just as well as before, just with a softer pedal now.

Will be visiting the pits tomorrow.. Cheers.

Edited by Ten Four
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...