Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have one of those stupid XANAVI units in my R34 GTT and given that it has the RCA connections in the boot, hence I though I could avoid spending money on a new head unit for a while.

That said after i have connected the red and white audio cables in the boot, how to I switch to that input?

Thanks in advance

btw has anyone translated the xanavi dash controls?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256017-r34-gtt-xanavi-aux/
Share on other sites

Hi all

I have one of those stupid XANAVI units in my R34 GTT and given that it has the RCA connections in the boot, hence I though I could avoid spending money on a new head unit for a while.

That said after i have connected the red and white audio cables in the boot, how to I switch to that input?

Thanks in advance

btw has anyone translated the xanavi dash controls?

________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________

its unclear what you expect to achieve ( e.g. are you trying to install a CD MP3 hu in the boot to feed audio directly into the sender box in the boot and onto the Xanavi hu in the dash and if so why? - you do know that the Xanavi hu audio (as produced by the cd player for instance) is actually sent on via the std cassette radio unit thru to the speakers and not directly to them? have a look at the back of the Xanavi hu and all will be revealed by the mass of connectors!!!!!!!!!)

so, you need to be clearer as to what is your real objective (and hence we will know what is your real question?)

and as for the translation of the function buttons on the Xanavi hu this is on a post on this SAU site - use the search facility - the exercise will be rewarding as it may turn up extra info

pm me if stuck after fully trying the search function

To make things clearer, as you said i'll explain what i am trying to do.

I had plugged a digital tv tuner in to the rca inputs in the boot (video, audio left and audio right). I was doing this so I could tune in to the local tv brodcast and watch it thought the factory pop up screen. I then supplied power to the tuner and set it to output the signal as NTSC.

My question was...

After I had done this I was wondering how I could then set the xanavi to display the output of this dtv tuner?

But since then I have figured out how to and not only that I also found out how to play an mp3 player through the xanavi using the inputs in the Dash

To make things clearer, as you said i'll explain what i am trying to do.

I had plugged a digital tv tuner in to the rca inputs in the boot (video, audio left and audio right). I was doing this so I could tune in to the local tv brodcast and watch it thought the factory pop up screen. I then supplied power to the tuner and set it to output the signal as NTSC.

My question was...

After I had done this I was wondering how I could then set the xanavi to display the output of this dtv tuner?

But since then I have figured out how to and not only that I also found out how to play an mp3 player through the xanavi using the inputs in the Dash

________________________________________________________________________________

___________________

SELF-HELP IS WONDERFUL AIN'T IT

To make things clearer, as you said i'll explain what i am trying to do.

I had plugged a digital tv tuner in to the rca inputs in the boot (video, audio left and audio right). I was doing this so I could tune in to the local tv brodcast and watch it thought the factory pop up screen. I then supplied power to the tuner and set it to output the signal as NTSC.

My question was...

After I had done this I was wondering how I could then set the xanavi to display the output of this dtv tuner?

But since then I have figured out how to and not only that I also found out how to play an mp3 player through the xanavi using the inputs in the Dash

can you share your finds here ? a lot of people ask this question on how to reuse the standard screens ? and also the any wiring found in the sat nav plugs ?

cheers

usually with a dead navi the only way to do it iw via RGB->composite boxes. few will spend the money to do it.

I THINK YOU HAVE LEFT EVERYONE WITH THE QUESTIONS OF WHAT IS INVOLVED - BRIEF OUTLINE WOULD BE HELPFUL - AND COST?

be nice and I'll explain (IE do not yell.)

box is $500 or so and it will adapt/split a video signal into its raw colors and sync signals. as for doing it - not explaining that one. its NOT a DIY thing.

be nice and I'll explain (IE do not yell.)

box is $500 or so and it will adapt/split a video signal into its raw colors and sync signals. as for doing it - not explaining that one. its NOT a DIY thing.

___________________------____________________

fully understand the commercial in confidence and protection of intellectual property thingy - so (does this really have to be as hard as pulling teeth out ?) the next question is can you supply a d.i.y kit so a R34 owner wherever they are in Aust or the world can pull out the Xanavi hu and discard it and install/just plug in your kit (maybe together with some specific new h.u. or incar pc recommended or sold by you) into the existing car wiring loom (and using the in situ connectors for the screen) - you do not have to reveal the techie details - and get some functionality back (i.e. at least the capacity to play dvd/audio, and maybe tv and or sat nav a higher cost option)?

yes/no? - or what can you do?

est total cost/time to deliver ?

no. there are specific connectors in there that I cannot source.

if you are inclined to do so - try. the people that make them (yazaki or AMP.) will sell them to you in 10k lots.

if you are the person from gatton - yes I can do your car - yes it will cost 2-3K to do properly and no it cannot be put to english.

no. there are specific connectors in there that I cannot source.

if you are inclined to do so - try. the people that make them (yazaki or AMP.) will sell them to you in 10k lots.

if you are the person from gatton - yes I can do your car - yes it will cost 2-3K to do properly and no it cannot be put to english.

_____-_______________-________________

Who's the anonymous interloper from Gatton and what has he/she to do with this thread? (Rhetoric question - actually needs no reply)

These multi convo posts never work out.....................................

You could always wack on of those portable dvd players(with RCA and NTSC Output) in the boot, If you just want to watch DVD's? But it would be inconvenient to control the DVD Player since it would be in the boot.

You could get a in car pc with a M2-ATX-HV 140W 6-32V Wide Input Intelligent Automotive DC-DC Power Supply or similar (so the computer starts and shuts down with the car).

Then some how convert VGA to RCA Video (NTSC) this maybe?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VGA-to-TV-Converter...tem370157902984

Then get a wireless keyboard/mouse a run the receiver to the cabin.

If you want GPS get a USB receiver and put it on the parcel shelf.

If you want TV get one of those USB DTV tuners, u'd need a decent aerial

And obviously if you want to play DVD's u'd need a DVD RW+- drive in the PC

That's my lame notion, not being full on techie, was gonna look into it but never got round to it

that would work :D

though if you were going to that extent I would drop the video converter and do it with raw video. the IDEAL thing with that would be to reuse the one in the OE DVD unit :)

in all thats quite a good solution for it.

this is another:

http://www.hitv.com.au/products/view.jsp?id=1&category=7

that is basically a windows box running CE. hack that and chuck on what ever apps you like. it WILL do touch screen as well. standard it does GPS,movies and speed info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...