Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stretching = less tyre on the road as well which is a good thing at the back when your talking drift.. although not so much the front, but i'm assuming they dont stretch em as much up front? If you want good grip you don't want to go stretching for exactly that reason, less footprint on the road = bad, like overinflating your tyres.. If you want less sidewall flex go lower profile not thinner tyres that don't fit

Hard to find proper tyre joints that will stretch too but, i like the look, looks sick

i used to rip the tyres off my dirt drifter all the time because as it went sideways the tyres dug in a bit and just peeled off.

if i had of stretched them then they have less change of peeling off,

thats one reason that i have found and been told about.

dont do much circuit/track so cant comment on that.

interested to find out more tho.

cheers

Gezza

I too am a fan of the stretched look.

I have run 225's on a 6.5in rim and a 205 on a 8in when drifting.

With the stretch it does feel tighter and more responsive in the rear. I think thats the only performance benefit. Less sidewall flex.

The bonus is of course their also cheaper. Drifter pushing a decent amount of power will go through 5 or 6 PAIRS of rubber in a drift day and still need more. It becimes very expensive. So even a little bit of saving due to smaller sizes adds up

they look like the good ol drifteks.

flicking through a few, well, alot of hpi mags last night and found quite a few time attack entrants go the stretch.. some do, and some dont.. these guys arent cheap kmart boys.. and can destroy a set of big dollar semi slicks within a few laps.

something else to think about.

cheers

Linton

they look like the good ol drifteks.

flicking through a few, well, alot of hpi mags last night and found quite a few time attack entrants go the stretch.. some do, and some dont.. these guys arent cheap kmart boys.. and can destroy a set of big dollar semi slicks within a few laps.

something else to think about.

cheers

Linton

Alot of cars int he hpi mags (& others) claim to be time attack but it is clear from looking at them that they have either never been near a track or if they have are hopeless. Brakes that look like brand new, hopeless spring rates & no negative camber are just some of the things that give the game away. If you look at an R compound after it has been used properly it is a very ugly tyre. Be aware also that some of the workshop cars will be on what are basically show rims/tyres ie not what they run at the track.

Tooling about seconds off the pace does not make a good track car. Just like stretching a road tyre does not make a good track tyre. Any half decent track car will use the correct tyres - either a r compound or a slick. Both of which have the carcass construction to obviate any need to stretch anything.

Look if you want to do it because you reckon it looks fully sik then go ahead. But please don't advocate it as a preferred alternative to anyone who is in any way serious about a good lap time.

If people want to use them for drifting then good on them.

it was not feature car article... it was in articles about time attack events, at tskuba and the like.

and track cars aside.. what if i dont want to go to the track.. what if want something that will tear something like the putty road apart.... this is why i started this thread.. and compared it to wrc cars on tarmac... as they arent on a race track, they are on an average road.. you already mentioned the reasoning for some of them having stretched tyres.. i just made the mention of d1 teams and time attack teams to combat the "kmart" response.

cheers

Linton

as far as safety goes: not an issue unless ur going over like a 18x10 with a 215/45 range, some will be fine, but it depends on each tyre and rim, some tyres are better at stretch, some rims are better at stretch (bead seat design). but for most stretch like a 215 on a 9", ull be fine.

looks: personal taste

performance: can provide less traction (as opposed to a same size tyre on a thinner wheel), but will firm up the sidewalls, hence it is popular for drift, it means u dont have to run high end tyres to get a tyre with a solid and predictable sidewall. afterall drift is about control and predicability, sacraficing a bit of traction/speed for more predictability often makes sense

ride/comfort: there will be a slightly harsher ride, as well as tracking as there is less sidewall compliance, no different to performance tyres with hard sidewalls tho

from the pics ive seen... they arent stretched, as like you say, a 215 on an 18x10... but they appear to be slightly angled in as opposed to straight up and down and inline with the edge of the rim.. hence my reference to them.

cheers

Linton

as far as safety goes: not an issue unless ur going over like a 18x10 with a 215/45 range, some will be fine, but it depends on each tyre and rim, some tyres are better at stretch, some rims are better at stretch (bead seat design). but for most stretch like a 215 on a 9", ull be fine.

looks: personal taste

performance: can provide less traction (as opposed to a same size tyre on a thinner wheel), but will firm up the sidewalls, hence it is popular for drift, it means u dont have to run high end tyres to get a tyre with a solid and predictable sidewall. afterall drift is about control and predicability, sacraficing a bit of traction/speed for more predictability often makes sense

ride/comfort: there will be a slightly harsher ride, as well as tracking as there is less sidewall compliance, no different to performance tyres with hard sidewalls tho

Good writeup but you missed one of the key things needed to set a good lap/stage time.

Lateral grip.

Now despite all the hype this is obviously going to be less of a consideration in a drift car than a track car. So one of the fundamental concerns for anyone on a track setting times gets ignored. Stretching a tyre does nothing for lateral grip.

Stuffing as much rubber under the guards as you can does help. If you ever get the chance to look under a touring car running unrestricted rubber you will see the guards are a mess of black where the tyres are in contact over bumps etc.

Good writeup but you missed one of the key things needed to set a good lap/stage time.

Lateral grip.

Now despite all the hype this is obviously going to be less of a consideration in a drift car than a track car. So one of the fundamental concerns for anyone on a track setting times gets ignored. Stretching a tyre does nothing for lateral grip.

Stuffing as much rubber under the guards as you can does help. If you ever get the chance to look under a touring car running unrestricted rubber you will see the guards are a mess of black where the tyres are in contact over bumps etc.

not sure how i didnt cover that, pretty sure i mentioned grip, including lateral grip.

grip is very important in competitive drift, being able to carry more speed into the corner, as well as through the corner and out of the corner, saying that having a tyre that flops around takes a lot of feel and response out of the rear end, especially on change of direction etc. is pretty shit to drift with.

u can get away with a bit of a faint rear end with racing, as long as overall lap time is better, but drift is a different story.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...