Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Extroid Cvt - Strip Down And Repair!

sbyder
 Share

Recommended Posts

sbyder Collaborator

sbyder

Posted
Posted

I've recently pulled the CVT out of my 2000 Nissan Y34 Cedric as it had some serious amounts of small gold coloured and metal particles in the sump not to mention shockingly dirty fluid.

According to the blokes at CVT.co.nz you need to be a trained professional at rebuilding these boxes and they want $6-$11,000 for a rebuild/repair because they are one of the only english speaking extroid CVT experts in the world. Obviously I can buy a wrecked CVT equipped Gloria/Cedric in Japan and ship it over for a lot less then that, so i decided to rip the box apart and find out exactly what fails and have the parts replaced/replicated if the expensive is considered reasonable.

The box in question is the RE0R04A 6 speed CVT which will be very similar to the 8 speed found in the GT8.

I started the strip down last night and all i can say is its a nightmare. The amount of different sized bolts and clips/gears are scary. I've done the best i can at logging where all the bolts go and document everything with pictures so hopegully she'll go back together fairly easy.

Since I have only worked on it for about 2 hours (including an hour to take the box out) here are some pics for you to have a gander at.

I will provide more pictures/information as it comes to hand.

Cheers

Ben

post-50241-1234223861_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224084_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224101_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224139_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224160_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224182_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224202_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1234224224_thumb.jpg

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

cool. it will be interesting to see how you get on. no doubt a lot of your work will apply to the GT8 trans as well. since neither is really an 8 speed or 6 speed both are just a CVT with different 'shift' programming you can utilise giving a number of set ratio points.

I honestly have no idea what wears in them but it should look like this inside as I understand nissan use the type of CVT with a belt drive with 2 variable size pullleys. which is probably the most common type. there are a few potential spots though I can think of off the top of my head.

Jatco%20CVT2%20Inside%20View%20Small.jpg

and here's a good little gif for those who have no idea how they work.

cvt-14.gif

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...