Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What sort of rear strut brace do you have? I have noticed some Greddy ones come up on here a couple of times. I think Cusco also do them. Does it have much of an impact on your boot space? Also how does it make the car handling feel better? (Give me a really good answer please so I can justify it to the missus) :blink:

I have a Carbing rear brace, which appears to be very well made (and very sturdy) in mine. As far as handling is concerned, a bit of history first: I inherited my stag already converted to rb26 etc, and already fitted with the SK package: it had travelled less than 15000km since having all the work done, so everything was in excellent condition. The car was GOOD: excellent turn-in bump control, etc I was more than impressed. It was stiff enough that it used to lift a rear wheel when I was mounting the ramp into the local shopping centre, but you could hear the rear hatch moving relative to the body the car: even the interior trim could be heard flexing when I did this, or really pushed it around a corner.

I picked the rear brace up second hand from a fellow stag owner, and only bought it because the price was too attractive to refuse: I wasn't expecting any great leaps in handling/ride etc... After fitting it, the car was a whole different machine: it feels HEAPS more sure of itself in all conering conditions, is significantly less prone to understeer, and much better on corrugated roads: it doesn't wander at all (inever even realised it did until I felt the difference with the brace fitted). There are no more noises/feelings of flex when I mount the ramp at the shopping centre any more, and GreenGhost (damn his love of sideways - I said test drive, not test drift! :banana: ) tells me it kicks out easily and accurately. It has lessened body roll enormously, and hasn't decreased comfort one iota. Like I said, I consider it an essential mod for any stagea owner who wants their car to handle better.

Of course, the downside (not to me) is the fact that you have a solid bar of steel between the strut towers, so big loads are a no-no. You also have to be careful cutting the rear trim around the strut towers: it can be easy to make it look messy, but a little care will yield a very neat result. Given that I only ever really carry a couple of people at most (I have a Legnum to use for mule duties), I haven't seen any drawbacks in my setup, and given the cost of the part, I see it as the single most cost effective mod I've made.

I have a Carbing rear brace, which appears to be very well made (and very sturdy) in mine. As far as handling is concerned, a bit of history first: I inherited my stag already converted to rb26 etc, and already fitted with the SK package: it had travelled less than 15000km since having all the work done, so everything was in excellent condition. The car was GOOD: excellent turn-in bump control, etc I was more than impressed. It was stiff enough that it used to lift a rear wheel when I was mounting the ramp into the local shopping centre, but you could hear the rear hatch moving relative to the body the car: even the interior trim could be heard flexing when I did this, or really pushed it around a corner.

I picked the rear brace up second hand from a fellow stag owner, and only bought it because the price was too attractive to refuse: I wasn't expecting any great leaps in handling/ride etc... After fitting it, the car was a whole different machine: it feels HEAPS more sure of itself in all conering conditions, is significantly less prone to understeer, and much better on corrugated roads: it doesn't wander at all (inever even realised it did until I felt the difference with the brace fitted). There are no more noises/feelings of flex when I mount the ramp at the shopping centre any more, and GreenGhost (damn his love of sideways - I said test drive, not test drift! :banana: ) tells me it kicks out easily and accurately. It has lessened body roll enormously, and hasn't decreased comfort one iota. Like I said, I consider it an essential mod for any stagea owner who wants their car to handle better.

Of course, the downside (not to me) is the fact that you have a solid bar of steel between the strut towers, so big loads are a no-no. You also have to be careful cutting the rear trim around the strut towers: it can be easy to make it look messy, but a little care will yield a very neat result. Given that I only ever really carry a couple of people at most (I have a Legnum to use for mule duties), I haven't seen any drawbacks in my setup, and given the cost of the part, I see it as the single most cost effective mod I've made.

I second rb26stagea's comments. The need is obvious when you look at the huge expanse of metal behind the driver without so much as a parcel shelf to hold it together let alone the rear bulkhead of a saloon car.

I got a greddy rear strut brace through the mini group buy and the brackets bolt to the tops of the rear sruts and the bar is attached by a hex headed bolt and nut so if i need to transport a fridge/freezer I can pull the bar out in less than one minute. (Excuse the mess in the photo background - I am currently wrecking this car but the bar will be going in my new Stagea)post-49463-1234402879_thumb.jpg

Sounds like by what you are all saying I would be foolish not to get one. I wonder if there is any chance of another group buy for these? Does anyone know the details of the last one and who organised it?

  • 2 weeks later...
I think around 7-9kg would be an ideal firm ride. My Apexi are 12kg an waaayyy tooooo hard. The packages aroung 4kn I think woiuld only be a bare upgrade from standard, IMO.

So has anyone come to a solid conclusion re: S1 RS260 struts?

from what i can gather:

R33 GTR front

R33 GTST rears + stiffer springs?

and rear strut brace is a Stagea specific item with GTST strut tops pattern?

I personally know the owner of Racing Logic.

If i were to ask him for a set of coilovers, he can supply whatever spring rates i want, and possibly even change the strut tops to suit...

Im still confused what models i should be asking for!

Edited by BIT SUS
So has anyone come to a solid conclusion re: S1 RS260 struts?

from what i can gather:

R33 GTR front

R33 GTST rears + stiffer springs?

and rear strut brace is a Stagea specific item with GTST strut tops pattern?

I personally know the owner of Racing Logic.

If i were to ask him for a set of coilovers, he can supply whatever spring rates i want, and possibly even change the strut tops to suit...

Im still confused what models i should be asking for!

Get a set of R33 GTR coilovers, spec the spring rates so that the rears rate matches the front or is only slightly lighter. The rear strut tops for the Stagea are about an inch smaller than the GTR's. Its a simple mod for any machine shop, just take out the rear shocks and you'll see exactly what is required. Also before getting the rear strut tops machined I had a couple of people suggest just modifying the standard stagea strut tops and useing these. (DO NOT GET CONNED INTO DOING THIS) I won't waste your time explaining all of the reasons why but trust me there is a good reason that when you pay for expensive coilovers they come with Billet Strut tops.

FYI I am running Greddy Typs S coilovers. 8 kg front (Std Greddy coils) and 6.8kg rears (Eibach). The standard Greddy rear coils were 6kg but progressive and too soft for the weight of a wagon in the rear. Make sure you get linear coils for the rear.

Anyways I love the way my car handles now (some may find it firm but I like it) the guys that setup my suspension do a few track GTRs and they reckoned it was a nice ride so I am happy based on that feedback. Also the whiteline subframe alignment kit is also a good mod for making the rear end feel a bit more sorted but you do feel alot more small bumps and such through the rear end as it eliminates any give in the subframe.

I have attached a couple of pics the first one is of the standard Greddy Coilovers before they went into the car. The second is of the rear strut top after it was modified, you can see where one of the original bolt holes its the half circle cut out in the middle of the strut top.

Hope that helps you mate.

post-39581-1235710123_thumb.jpg

post-39581-1235710158_thumb.jpg

So has anyone come to a solid conclusion re: S1 RS260 struts?

from what i can gather:

R33 GTR front

R33 GTST rears + stiffer springs?

and rear strut brace is a Stagea specific item with GTST strut tops pattern?

I personally know the owner of Racing Logic.

If i were to ask him for a set of coilovers, he can supply whatever spring rates i want, and possibly even change the strut tops to suit...

Im still confused what models i should be asking for!

you need GTR FORK end rear shocks!

rear strut brace- i answered your post in the suspension thread with links, and also the rear strut brace thread!

I will be trying some 8f,7r when i do my coilover conversion to my bilsteins! Or if the potholes near my place arent filled by then i might bitch out and go 6f5r current 3.5f4r is shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
×
×
  • Create New...