Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 1990 R32 GTR

Location: Redlands

Website: here

Item Condition: used

Reason for Selling: want a house and have no use for this car

Price and Payment Conditions: $21,000 or swaps for 4wd, ute or drifter

Extra Info:

this car was bought by me completely standard apart from the exhaust. The following work has been carried out by JD transmissions and jack brothers and has been well looked after, never missed a beat and is a very clean 32. Have reciepts for all work carried out

-R33 rb26

-block bored and honed using torque plate

-polished and chanfered crank

-fully reconditioned head

-light port and polish

-three angled valves

-20thou wiseco pistons

-wiseco rings

-standard rods but have been prepped and have arp rod bolts

-acl main bearings

-acl rod bearings

-arp head studs

-N1 oil pump

-N1 water pump

-Cometic 1.2mm head gasket

-nissan gaskets and seals

-Gates blue timing belt

-Gates belts

-700cc sard injectors

-walbro 500hp pump

-320km/h speedo

-exedy twin plate clutch

-splitfire coilpacks

-catback kakimoto exhaust

-cusco coilovers

-cusco srtut brace

-18 x 8.5 and 18 x 10.5 stich rims with brand new kumho tyres

-will have new rotors and pads in the coming weeks..

-turbo's were inspected when the motor was apart and are still in perfect condition

Nistune was carried out by sean from EFI performance and made 246kw/330hp on 15psi, running this motor in at the moment so haven't had it tuned as yet. I have a set off lemans series turbo's at my importers so if you want them i can do you a deal. With these turbo's your looking at close to 500hp at all four wheels

will post some more pics of the build when i can upload them off my other computer.

post-51411-1234332157_thumb.jpg

post-51411-1234332205_thumb.jpg

post-51411-1234332255_thumb.jpg

post-51411-1234332316_thumb.jpg

post-51411-1234332395_thumb.jpg

pm me for my number if your serious

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256585-built-gtr-32-fs/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I am looking to sell/swap my black 180SX to get into a GTR. Perhaps we could swap? Quick list of mods are:-

Aero9 body kit - brand new and just painted, car sits really well.

SR20DET, stainless mainfold, T28BB turbo, FMIC, injectors, 3" exhaust, 17" drifteks (black), ViPEC ECU tuned to 200rwkw on 14psi, Coilovers, 2 Way Diff, Brand New Federal 595 tyres, clean interior.

SMS me on 0402 421 437 if you are keen to see pics.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256585-built-gtr-32-fs/#findComment-4553317
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...