Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My front end isnt as cluttered in a HR as other models i think, plus my I/C setup is nothing like most FMIC are its close to the radiator core where as you look @ some FMIC's right down the front, making the air go all sorts of places, where the air only has one place to go with mine

Well, thats my theory on it anyway

Mine sits steady on 81c have seen it as low as 79 on a brisk morning and the highest has been 85c with spirirted driving/tuning. All of these readings were on my PFC hand controller.

Microtech dash tells me between 84 (winter) to 88 on a 47 degree day with a bit of spirited driving, it seems to hit up to 92 when the car's parked with the motor running for an extended period, but thats the highest I've seen it go, and thats with a leaking water pump! Quite impressed with it given that it's a JDM car with a small radiator being in often very hot conditions here

  • 10 months later...
My old 180 was the best, she'll be sitting on 95 most days, that's with a twin core GT-R radiator and 3 thermos... good ol' RB in a S13 chasis.. LOL.... overheat Queen!

your conservsion was shit than, my rb in the s13 while thrashing thru the hills on a hot day struggles to go past 86, cruising on the highway during the day it sits comfortably on 80-82, cruising on the highway at night time, 78-80, after steady night driving for a while and gunning it up to 200 than backing off i've seen the water temp drop down to 70 than slowly climb back up to 78-80

highest its ever been was 110, but that was a fairly long static skid! 

  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting thread.

I'm currently looking at trying to reduce my water temps, and it sounds like reducing the clutter in front of the radiator is the key.

I will take out all associated air con bits, but is there anything else I can do?

Today on a 38 degree day in Perth, on a free flowing highway going 100km/h in 5th, the water temp got to 95 on the PFC hand controller, and 102 on the Defi which reads from the top of the radiator.

Stock gauge didn't move.

^ i couldn't have more infront of my Radiator if i tried

I have

1x A/C Condensor

1x Ally Radiator

1x Small thermo fan/LH side - thats gotta be doing fk all compared to the clutch fan other than blocking air

1x Unchopped front bar, not much airflow on a HR31 bar

I have no issues on hot days. IMO i have more clutter than anyone else does.

The key is a good radiator and the clutch fan. I'm assuming that my motor sitting a bit lower is perhaps having some advantage - NFI how/why though hehe :blush:

Perhaps better 'guiding' of the air is what you need, being mine is kinda cluttered - it cant actually get out the sides and is being forced down the middle as there is little room for air to get out around the sides of anything

Interesting thread.

I'm currently looking at trying to reduce my water temps, and it sounds like reducing the clutter in front of the radiator is the key.

I will take out all associated air con bits, but is there anything else I can do?

Today on a 38 degree day in Perth, on a free flowing highway going 100km/h in 5th, the water temp got to 95 on the PFC hand controller, and 102 on the Defi which reads from the top of the radiator.

Stock gauge didn't move.

Sounds like your waterpump isn't functioning properly or your radiator is blocked.. When was the last time you had

your cooling system checked and serviced

^ i couldn't have more infront of my Radiator if i tried

I have

1x A/C Condensor

1x Ally Radiator

1x Small thermo fan/LH side - thats gotta be doing fk all compared to the clutch fan other than blocking air

1x Unchopped front bar, not much airflow on a HR31 bar

I have no issues on hot days. IMO i have more clutter than anyone else does.

The key is a good radiator and the clutch fan. I'm assuming that my motor sitting a bit lower is perhaps having some advantage - NFI how/why though hehe :blush:

Perhaps better 'guiding' of the air is what you need, being mine is kinda cluttered - it cant actually get out the sides and is being forced down the middle as there is little room for air to get out around the sides of anything

must be a hr31 thing, i cant get my car above 75.

what radiator you using brockas? still got the clutch fan and shroud?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...