Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the same thing.

Now as far as my understanding goes (and dont quote me on this, im sure someone can shed some more light on it) but it loops the powersteering system to trick the car into thinking its complete as you bypass the hicas system.

Is this true?

I had a quick look the other day (I still have to get a lock bar so im in no rush) I think it loops the system right near the powersteering canister.

Or am I completely wrong?

'just looked on a 300zx site and there is an identical part in the "instructions"

this part actually goes up where the front solenoid is after you remove it????????

thanks for the helpfull advice

at least know wtf you are selling! and where the f**k it goes

end rant

YES!

Thats what I was trying to explain without very good results.

If you end up stripping the entire system could you write up a lift of what was removed from where?

And rough weight?

Cheers mate,

Cris

  • 2 weeks later...

Mate i did away with the whole lot right back to the power steering pump. Everything got turfed. lines solonoids actuators, the lot. I even pulled the power steering pump out and pulled it apart and took the hicas impeller out. Actually playing around with an old one atm to ditch the whole rear section of the pump, machine the shaft and match the rear cover. All i've done for the moment is i've machined a bush to replace the banjo fitting on the pump to stop the oil from coming out. It's dimentions are 26mm OD 16.5 ID and 16mm tall. Probably cost 30 buck from a machine shop. :P

theres a long thread on hicas removal. sydneykid uploaded a lot of images & instructions. your fitting is maybe a replacement where he loops a hose

evocoop: howd the low speed handling change on your car with the hicas removed?? thinking bout doin the same, vept the pump part

mike

Edited by Mike__
theres a long thread on hicas removal. sydneykid uploaded a lot of images & instructions. your fitting is maybe a replacement where he loops a hose

evocoop: howd the low speed handling change on your car with the hicas removed?? thinking bout doin the same, vept the pump part

mike

I haven't actually drivin it yet. Still building it. Gotta be a good thing but cause it elimimates a variable is how i look at it.

Alls i did was buy a hicas lock bar from Just jap and made this little bush and chucked the rest in the bin.

post-34032-1235293658_thumb.jpg

  • 1 year later...

so did anyine find out where this jjr bypass actually go. i just got one, i have installed the lock bar and tried to fit the bypass to the rear solenoid but it definatley doesnt go there, i havent checked the fron solenoid or power steer pump yet, i ran out of daylight

I have just recently been through this. Installed the lock bar and removed lines back to the fail safe solenoid which is on drivers side in front of rear wheel.

Found that the JJR bypass would not fit at this point so looked at all other lines and fittings. Would not go anywhere else so removed the fail safe solenoid and took it to JJ.

Sure enough the problem was they had a batch manufactured that are inncorrect. They gave me another one and I test fitted it on the spot. Worked a treat.

Cheers,

Steve

I have just recently been through this. Installed the lock bar and removed lines back to the fail safe solenoid which is on drivers side in front of rear wheel.

Found that the JJR bypass would not fit at this point so looked at all other lines and fittings. Would not go anywhere else so removed the fail safe solenoid and took it to JJ.

Sure enough the problem was they had a batch manufactured that are inncorrect. They gave me another one and I test fitted it on the spot. Worked a treat.

Cheers,

Steve

I had the same problem a few months ago. I couldn't get it to fit, assumed that I wasn't installing it in the correct spot so I sold it. Now looks like I had it in the correct spot but the part was manufactured incorrectly.

I should write them a letter to get a refund or replacement. Most likely I will just end up buying another one.

I was scratching my head for ages thinking what are the chances that it almost fits in that spot but belongs somewhere else on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
×
×
  • Create New...