Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My r32 gtst wont start unless i've got my foot on the accelerator and when it starts the car will shake like it has seizures, also if i put my foot back onto the accelerator to rev it abit the cars rev will drop abit before it shoots back up again.

Would really help if anyone knew why this was happening.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256792-cant-start-car/
Share on other sites

Most r32's from what i have heard need a bit of throttle to get them started especially when cold.

Need a little more info to help you out, like after you gas the car to start it, does it idle etc. Your description is a little vague.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256792-cant-start-car/#findComment-4423070
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm confirming the "2 way" Nismos can be converted to 1.5's very easily as you already described. It's well detailed in the manual. I can scan mine if you need, I think I still have it laying around somewhere. 
    • Well, its worth noting that 450+ is probably enough to get you to church on time each Sunday already..... You mentioned cams, did you upgrade the valve springs as well? Factory ones will be well past their use case by now. And yes, the hydraulic lifters are likely to limit your usable rpms and AFAIK you need a (now rare and expensive) head swap to rb26 or even better rb25neo for that (to retain VCT) I don't think 4"/3.5" should be a restriction. What about the intake, do you have an upsized intercooler and what is the throttle body?
    • I also second realdash. I have it on my head unit as a secondary cluster talking canbus with my ecu. Works great. 
    • Something like this -  You can buy the arms in different lengths too. The suction cup goes to the windscreen. 
    • I do have an adjustable exhaust cam gear but I always presumed these only lead to minor changes. I'll play around with it next week and report back. Also wouldn't advancing, not retarding shift that power down lower?  We played around with VCT last year and it made more power with it on until redline. I had read somewhere that this is often the case with short runner intakes like I'm running but I'll revisit this after adjusting my exhaust cam.  I have a 4" downpipe and 3.5" line with two open dumps. I'm thinking back pressure would only start to be an issue at 35+ psi. I often hear people state things like "oh my turbo really only wakes up past 30psi" which goes against everything I know about centrifugal compressors. Is there any actual logic to this?  Thanks for the help dose.   
×
×
  • Create New...