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Tapping For New Tensioner On Rb25-30

joe blo

By joe blo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Guishnu Enthusiast

Guishnu

Posted
Posted

Not done it myself yet, but i believe that it doesn't matter how far you drill in (within reason) mainly because if you hit the water jacket, you just line the thread with plenty of locktight when you put it in. This is all off the top of my head and i have not researched it recently tho. Will be doing it myself again shortly.

With regards to the position, i don't think there is any measurable correct position. It's a tensioner, not an idler - so any slackness in the belt can be taken out.

SATO GTS Community Regular

SATO GTS

Posted
Posted

There is only about 5 to 7 mm wall thickness in the block at the section you need to drill into. It does not matter if you go it to the water gallery as it will seal up when you put the stud in with loctite or sealant.

If it's within a certain area going of the manual that has been produce by ppl of this forum then you will have no problem.

There is 1 point that I can not emphasize enough, that is for the thread to be tapped straight and true so that the belt runs inline with all the pulleys and doesn't foul on any thing to detoriate the belt and cause premature wear.

brada31ke70 Enthusiast

brada31ke70

Posted
Posted

i have a rb30 out of a series 3 silloette, just tapped the hole 16mm down from the head and 27mm in from the little 5mm hole, drilled in about 10-12mm and did not hit the water jacket, but if you do, use thread seal tape or even better, some hemp, lock tight will not work at all. it is best to tap it straight but if it is a little off, when you do up the tensioner it will pull it straight between the machined area of the block and the back of the tensioner. i used a 26 tensioners, not sure if it is different to 25.

  • 4 weeks later...
mongor Contributor

mongor

Posted
Posted
There is only about 5 to 7 mm wall thickness in the block at the section you need to drill into. It does not matter if you go it to the water gallery as it will seal up when you put the stud in with loctite or sealant.

If it's within a certain area going of the manual that has been produce by ppl of this forum then you will have no problem.

There is 1 point that I can not emphasize enough, that is for the thread to be tapped straight and true so that the belt runs inline with all the pulleys and doesn't foul on any thing to detoriate the belt and cause premature wear.

haha yeh word to that! i took so much time drilling and tapping my block and when i had finished, the tensioner had like a 0.2mm gap on one side wich made me freak out thinking my timing belt would jump straight off and drop valves... so i put a 3/8 deep reach socket over the stud ( once it was sealed in the block) and gently tapped it until it was straight. The ceff has done about 5000 k's now and it hasn't gone bang yet! : )

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