Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, just a quick one here. i have searched but to no avail.

basically i have done a few upgrades and have set everything up this is the last little bit before i can get it tuned :)

i am running on my r32 rb25;

-top mounted externally gated manifold

-garrett gt3082r

-Tial 38mm external gate

-greddy profec b spec ebc thingo

im unsure of how to setup the boost lines from the ext gate to the boost controller.

with my old internally gated turbo i only had the two lines going from the compressor side of turbo to the actuator and having the greddy boost solenoid in that line, now we have introduced external gate i am confuzzled.

i did get a fairly vague diagram with my tial gate but it makes no sence to me, i think that diagram excludes the ebc.

what im after is a basic diagram of how this should be setup.

i will have some pics up shortly

a response tonight would be good as i'd like to get these lines sorted and done in the morning :)

thankyou in advance for any info

ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256921-setting-up-ebc-with-external-gate/
Share on other sites

post-36971-1234515850_thumb.jpg

above is the tial 38mm gate, see how it has the two banjo type fittings there... i dont kno where these go.

and also on the greddy solenoid there are three outlets which can be used, which look kinda like this;

-NO

-NO

-COM

which one of these do i now use

Firstly, how much boost are you going to be running?

And are those Tial's internal spring change to alter the pressure setting? Or screw top?

plan on running approx 16psi

the tial gate i have is the "internal sping change" type. the spring currently there i believe is a 1bar rating, which will achieve 16psi, as i was advised when purchasing from a reputable turbo specialist place here in adelaide.

Edited by theminuz

Ye you want the closest spring set possible.

I remember with the turbosmart gate i had the 17psi ended up achieving around 15.5-16psi, so you might see the same

In which case put 17psi in there... if you do that you probably wont need a EBC at all, i didnt with my setup

You need to run a line from the compressor housing (boost source) to the bottom of the wastegate, then, on that line, tee in another line which runs to your "in" feed on the boost control, and on the "out" feed on your controller, another line fron the out, to the top of the gate.

ok, to save you the f**king around later, hook kit up the same way as a internal one.. you have an electronic one?

line from MANIFOLD to boost controler -------> to wastgate lower half. top half of wastegate leave open to air.

hooking up the top half of the gate to the controler is another way but is harder to get a stable boost control without spikes etc etc...

ie: do not follow the "external wategate" hose routing that comes with you boost controler..

awesome got it sorted

what im gonna do is connect it up asif i dont have a boost controller.

ie; from compressor housing nipple to lower half of gate, leaving top half free to atmosphere

this will enable me to run boost levels at the rate of the spring which is a 1bar spring rating.

by doing this it will enable me to drive to my tuner and he can set it up which ever way he wants :domokun:

i did do some more searching this morning and found numerous diagrams on the turbosmart website which were very helpfull. even though i have a tial gate and greddy ebc the diagrams illustrated are generic i'd say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...