Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, just a quick one here. i have searched but to no avail.

basically i have done a few upgrades and have set everything up this is the last little bit before i can get it tuned :)

i am running on my r32 rb25;

-top mounted externally gated manifold

-garrett gt3082r

-Tial 38mm external gate

-greddy profec b spec ebc thingo

im unsure of how to setup the boost lines from the ext gate to the boost controller.

with my old internally gated turbo i only had the two lines going from the compressor side of turbo to the actuator and having the greddy boost solenoid in that line, now we have introduced external gate i am confuzzled.

i did get a fairly vague diagram with my tial gate but it makes no sence to me, i think that diagram excludes the ebc.

what im after is a basic diagram of how this should be setup.

i will have some pics up shortly

a response tonight would be good as i'd like to get these lines sorted and done in the morning :)

thankyou in advance for any info

ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256921-setting-up-ebc-with-external-gate/
Share on other sites

post-36971-1234515850_thumb.jpg

above is the tial 38mm gate, see how it has the two banjo type fittings there... i dont kno where these go.

and also on the greddy solenoid there are three outlets which can be used, which look kinda like this;

-NO

-NO

-COM

which one of these do i now use

Firstly, how much boost are you going to be running?

And are those Tial's internal spring change to alter the pressure setting? Or screw top?

plan on running approx 16psi

the tial gate i have is the "internal sping change" type. the spring currently there i believe is a 1bar rating, which will achieve 16psi, as i was advised when purchasing from a reputable turbo specialist place here in adelaide.

Edited by theminuz

Ye you want the closest spring set possible.

I remember with the turbosmart gate i had the 17psi ended up achieving around 15.5-16psi, so you might see the same

In which case put 17psi in there... if you do that you probably wont need a EBC at all, i didnt with my setup

You need to run a line from the compressor housing (boost source) to the bottom of the wastegate, then, on that line, tee in another line which runs to your "in" feed on the boost control, and on the "out" feed on your controller, another line fron the out, to the top of the gate.

ok, to save you the f**king around later, hook kit up the same way as a internal one.. you have an electronic one?

line from MANIFOLD to boost controler -------> to wastgate lower half. top half of wastegate leave open to air.

hooking up the top half of the gate to the controler is another way but is harder to get a stable boost control without spikes etc etc...

ie: do not follow the "external wategate" hose routing that comes with you boost controler..

awesome got it sorted

what im gonna do is connect it up asif i dont have a boost controller.

ie; from compressor housing nipple to lower half of gate, leaving top half free to atmosphere

this will enable me to run boost levels at the rate of the spring which is a 1bar spring rating.

by doing this it will enable me to drive to my tuner and he can set it up which ever way he wants :domokun:

i did do some more searching this morning and found numerous diagrams on the turbosmart website which were very helpfull. even though i have a tial gate and greddy ebc the diagrams illustrated are generic i'd say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...