Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i am going to buy a m48 motec for my skyline r33 gts 25 t wat i was wondering with it is

*does it fit in any car and does it have to have specific software for particular car

*is it easy to tune ?

*does it have a map sensor to go with it ? and how many bar is it.is the map sensor built into the unit>?

*what are they really worth ?

*do you have to run wires into the engine bay ?or can u wire it into where the standard ecu sits ?

*can you get a plug and play adapter ?

if any one can help would be much appreciated

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257138-motec-m48/
Share on other sites

hey guys i am going to buy a m48 motec for my skyline r33 gts 25 t wat i was wondering with it is

I've run an M48 Pro with all options enabled for a number of years now (note: non-turbo car)

*does it fit in any car and does it have to have specific software for particular car

The M48 will pretty much run any engine, but is essentially an 'expanded' M4 with the ability to run full sequential injection on a 6-cylinder engine. Unless things have changed since I got mine, they don't provide specific maps for particular cars/engines (that's understandable when you realise the number of potential applications.....).

*is it easy to tune ?

It's relatively easy for someone that knows what they're doing. The quick lambda function helps quite a lot. My engine was tuned using an engine dyno.

*does it have a map sensor to go with it ? and how many bar is it.is the map sensor built into the unit>?

Unless things have changed at Motec, then the answer is no. Motec charge you for the bare ECU + whatever options you want (eg wide band control, traction control, whatever), but then hit you for a loom, sensors, etc. It gets expensive, but the best isn't cheap. It's cheaper to get your own sensors and in the case of MAP sensors the GM type is readily available and reasonably cheap.

*what are they really worth ?

How long is a piece of string ??.....Motec costs more because they are the best and come with support second to none (in my experience). They are 'worth' what people will pay for them, to perhaps state the bleeding obvious.

*do you have to run wires into the engine bay ?or can u wire it into where the standard ecu sits ?

Generally you'd buy a Motec loom to suit your application and wire it where you want the ECU to be placed. Putting it where the original ECU was located makes sense, and, yes, the wires would need to pass through the firewall but since you'd be replacing much of the original loom anyway, you'd just run the replacement loom in place of the original. Another option would be to do a cut and shut job using the original loom.

*can you get a plug and play adapter ?

Not that I'm aware of. Keep in mind that Motec ECU's are designed for racing applications and in most cases are illegal for use in a road car. At one point Motec were offering a service to tune ECU's to meet emission standards, but the ECU once tuned had to be locked, which sort of defeats the purpose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257138-motec-m48/#findComment-4427132
Share on other sites

I've run an M48 Pro with all options enabled for a number of years now (note: non-turbo car)

The M48 will pretty much run any engine, but is essentially an 'expanded' M4 with the ability to run full sequential injection on a 6-cylinder engine. Unless things have changed since I got mine, they don't provide specific maps for particular cars/engines (that's understandable when you realise the number of potential applications.....).

It's relatively easy for someone that knows what they're doing. The quick lambda function helps quite a lot. My engine was tuned using an engine dyno.

Unless things have changed at Motec, then the answer is no. Motec charge you for the bare ECU + whatever options you want (eg wide band control, traction control, whatever), but then hit you for a loom, sensors, etc. It gets expensive, but the best isn't cheap. It's cheaper to get your own sensors and in the case of MAP sensors the GM type is readily available and reasonably cheap.

How long is a piece of string ??.....Motec costs more because they are the best and come with support second to none (in my experience). They are 'worth' what people will pay for them, to perhaps state the bleeding obvious.

Generally you'd buy a Motec loom to suit your application and wire it where you want the ECU to be placed. Putting it where the original ECU was located makes sense, and, yes, the wires would need to pass through the firewall but since you'd be replacing much of the original loom anyway, you'd just run the replacement loom in place of the original. Another option would be to do a cut and shut job using the original loom.

Not that I'm aware of. Keep in mind that Motec ECU's are designed for racing applications and in most cases are illegal for use in a road car. At one point Motec were offering a service to tune ECU's to meet emission standards, but the ECU once tuned had to be locked, which sort of defeats the purpose.

You deserve a prize for one of the most comprehensive and to the point answers I have seen in ages - makes a change from "yes I've got one and they're the greatest" or "don't get one they're s**t" or "use the search button".
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257138-motec-m48/#findComment-4428010
Share on other sites

i have an m48 in my hr31. Its a great piece of gear. It is a little frustrating that an ecu that expensive has everything as an optional extra. I also have a tech edge lambda plugged into mine as its far cheaper than buying the motec wideband sensor and i get a digital readout in realtime. They do now offer some plug in options i think for wrx and evo but that's the extent of it to my knowledge.

antz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257138-motec-m48/#findComment-4429884
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...