Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this isn't a skyline but would like some input from those familiar with rules and regs for the different classes of drag racing on what the car should be aimed at.

Car in question is a late 90's Holden Rodeo single cab ute.

Engine is the factory 6VD1 which is a 3.2L OHC V6 which has been extremely modified with custom billet crank,rods,pistons etc etc etc. Basically a full house engine and fuel system.

Car used to run a turbonetics Super T and made around 600rwkw. Its now been rebuilt stronger again and a Thumper has been bolted on. Plan is to run methanol or maybe even E85 and should make very close to 1000rwkw in dyno queen mode on the gas.

It runs a dry ice cooler setup, and the radiator is remote mounted to the rear of the car. It has a roll cage, stripped interior except for dash and a fixed seat.

Rear end has had a nine inch installed along with ditching the leaf springs for coilovers and a four link.

Front end suspension is still the factory torsion bar setup. Front brakes are upgraded along with rear.

It still has all factory panels and glass. And currently has 10.5 inch slicks but I dont recall height but this can be easily changed to suit class.

All factory lights still work but wipers I think are gone along with pollution gear.

Transmission is a tremec TKO that has lasted so far but a lenco has been purchased in anticipation of the tremec letting go with new setup.

Car in all honesty has just been a snowball with no real target in sight for what it was built to do. Started off with a small supercharger and just went from there. Its pretty much just been a dyno queen.

The owner has grown old of the dyno crap ( although he will try and crack the 1000rwkw when its built ) and wants to race. He wants to do some salt lake trials but is more focused on drag racing it now and in the sport compact series if possible.

We went through the sport compact site and the different classes and he both left with sore heads and a state of confusion.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to get as much info in as I could remember so people that had a clue in this sort of thing could give an educated answer.

With the above specs what would be the closest class the car would fit into?

Being modest it should run sub 10 seconds. But with some setup and driver experience the plan is a bit faster.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258081-what-class-of-drag-racing/
Share on other sites

What a combo! Even at 600kw it would be super fast. If you're going to put that much power down you're going to need some serious suspension tweaking or a bigger tyre. That said, plenty of cars are going quick on 28x9's. It would be pointless in my view to drop in tyre size just to fit the ST289 class but you might find your 4link mods exclude you anyway. Your car would fit in Super Mod (or whatever it's called now) in the Sport Compact Group events and super sedan at ANDRA events. I will look closer at the Super Compact rules for you to see if you can fit into group 2 somewhere but feel free to call and/or email Ray at Sport Compact Group. He's more than happy to help racers out with classification.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...