Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

So far ive avoided FMIC (installed r34 SMIC) due to having to hack the bumper and id rather keep the car looking facory. Was at JJR yesterday and bought a split front/dump pipe. he said some of the coolingpro intercooler (whatever the are) bolt straight up?

Are there any FMIC that could be recommended for a r33 gts25t which bolt up without dramas/hacking? Id rather a black one too is it possible. Sounds bizarre i know

i just rather the stealth approach to be honest. big shiny intercoolers bulging out the front look cool but just not my thing. I want efficiency without the attention..

Any recommendations?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258104-r33-gts25t-fmic/
Share on other sites

The cooling pro thing is a good price and option. I just put one in the stagea because I didn't want to hack anything up either (and the return pipe from most intercoolers goes over the top of the motor/fan too.

You can always paint it black.

I'm not 100% sure on the 33 gtst but in the stagea it wasn't exactly "bolt straight up" some of the brackets didn't line up properly so you might want to get a workshop to do it if you aren't confident with "adjusting"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258104-r33-gts25t-fmic/#findComment-4438824
Share on other sites

my front mount is bolted behind the rio bar and the piping runs through the factory holes under the air filter. I didn't fit it, so thats all i know about it. So yes its possible to set it up easy...except not sure how you would go about getting the intercooler piping for it they may sell them in that shape for that setup somewhere maybe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258104-r33-gts25t-fmic/#findComment-4439766
Share on other sites

if you removed the thermo on the front of the rad or put a spal slimline on the coolingpro would fit behind the reo, but would need piping and bracket mods... full custom from raceradiators down here in melb could make up a full custom that needs no mods to fit :D

you get what you pay for

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258104-r33-gts25t-fmic/#findComment-4439935
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...