Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi PW350...I'm getting a little confused buddy......could you re-read my past posts? :thumbsup:

I don't and won't have a lightened fw in my car....I would not ever recommend any flywheel, ever, to anybody, for the V35, unless you want more of the 'performance' aspect....(which I don't need, not that way anyway)...That's why I'm potentially selling one (on behalf of somebody else).

I am extemely upset and mad at the 'chattering' noise in my car....that's why it's going back to the dealer.

I now have a 1 inch thich foam pad on the clutch pedal, to help reduce (albeit not very well) the vibration from going up my leg!

Cheers.

I Apologies for misunderstanding your previous post. wasn't sure what you meant "for sale" term before. Cheers

Sounds strange that your getting this vibration from the clutch pedel, I had a OS twin plate in my 180sx and it was noisy as when you pushed the clutch in. But i never had any vibration coming from the pedel pushed in or out even when it was shagged after some hard launches @ the drags with slicks on.

Just a random stab in the dark but you may have one of these problems

clutch is miss aligned

hot spots on cluthc/flywheel

weak slave cylinder

cracked or busted gearbox mount

cracked or busted engine mount

Clutch Chatter:

Clutch chatter, a vibration and/or noise when engaging the clutch, is likely to be caused by an internal clutch problem. A warped disc, hotspots on the flywheel or pressure plate surfaces, worn or dry input shaft splines, or worn release bearing.

wow!..thanx for taking the time for me 180!

I don't really expect anyone else to read my prior posts, in other sections re my box, and the drama's unfolding.....

So I'd like to answer you as best I can, if I may, point by point...

yes, that bloody clutch pedal feel, that is proportional in vibration to the gear knob....very frustrating, and very un-classy...my little Festiva bomb feels better than this car........the noise is there only when the clutch is in the drive position, regardless of gear (including reverse)....

When clutch is in, no noise, at any speed...coasting, reving in neutral, no vibration either.....only when she's under any (slight) load.

Clutch and flywheel are brand new...standard Nissan OEM parts.

Slave Cylinder....just doesn't seem to be anything remotely like this.

Gear box mounts?......The box has been in and out of the car 3 -4 times....and I was there most of the time it was un-installed...do you think we would've found a bad mount?....I'm sure we would've.....but I thought we would've.

Engine Mount?....admittedly, never checked this.???..but then again, if you heard the whirring 'volkswagen' sound when taking off in first and reverse, you'd prolly neg that.

Spigot and Thruster bearings are brand new Nissan parts.

Input shaft spline/needle bearings....I was told they're ok, coz I thought that too!...(but hey, could still be them!)

Release Bearing??...I don't understand that part??..sorry.

My thoughts???...farked sychro assy......

180?...Thankyou so much...(goin down on you big time). :thumbsup:

Anyway....she goes back monday....I'm pushing for a whole new box, that's be the right thing for them to do, (and they say they will)..they can waste their own time on that suckerbox, not mine.

Oh...driver's side door lock actuator/solenoid shat itself lastnite.....farkin great....back to using keys again.

I Apologies for misunderstanding your previous post. wasn't sure what you meant "for sale" term before. Cheers

hey man!..don't apologize!....THANKYOU for helping me. :thumbsup:

Skyline is supposed to run 100 Octane... Don't think the ethanol blend is anywhere near even 98.
Oh...driver's side door lock actuator/solenoid shat itself lastnite.....farkin great....back to using keys again.

Iv been using the key to unlock the door myself as of late, because my key seems to for some reason to require 3 to 5 presses before it will unlock or lock after that for some reason you only need to press it once.... might open up the key and give the contacts a clean

Iv been using the key to unlock the door myself as of late, because my key seems to for some reason to require 3 to 5 presses before it will unlock or lock after that for some reason you only need to press it once.... might open up the key and give the contacts a clean

Yep...when I bought the car, I noticed a little calcification on the key PCB.....a liitle CO cleaner, and batt contact clean saw it work consistantly again.

On the other key, noticed that a battery leg was no longer soldered in place...a little heat tickle with my Wella saw that soldered again.

Nice and gentle does it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...