Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MAZMAN i relied to your post on supra forums... small world!! it would drive me insane!

timsr33 i had standard cams.. well bog stock motor 1.4 bar same everthing made 315awkw. lag was almost identical,put the cams in a mild head and went to 376awkw on 1.6 bar.

ive been told its the small cams and weak valve springs... but there are the odd freak ones on here making 400+ kw on same boost. either im missing something or they arnt telling us something..

but you have valve springs. wich make me worry about mine. but yours has crazy lag! what was the "clearance issues" you discoverd?

ps.. my girly has a rb25 and a gt35 with .68 ar rear. she made 345rwkw on 1.5 bar. little 252 poncams and type a springs on a 6 boost. now when i built the motor it made 260kw on 1.2 bar i opened up the small radius on exhaust ports only! went straight to 301kw..

so i think our cyl heads are the place to look at.

my valve clearances were only 0.15 inlet and exhaust and when hey heated up they were opening slightly so i redone the clearances my self and redialed my cams and i can get 1.5 bar in 4 th gear by 4800 rpm but i need to get it tuned again because it is leaning out bad now on boost gettting 14 afr so ill add a bit of fuel and then get mark to put it on the rollers again to see how i goes

Edited by timsr33
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I thought i would join in and give you my experience as well.

I however have a supra 2jzgte with a gt42.

Long story short, i have very low power numbers for the size of turbo and boost im running, ive tried a lot of things, people were saying also valve float, small cams etc.. after replacing them, i am still having the same issue's.

My boost comes on hard at 5500rpm@26psi and thats where it makes its max HP, then just flat lines all the way to redline.

All the info is in the links here, i have posted my issue's on a fair few forums, so if you can be bothered, have a read what ive done, im pretty sure we may have a similar issue, also running a haltech e11 and having a hard time finding someone to tune it...

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67205139

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37070

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529982

Not sure if you'll be able to go on all of them, may need to sign up? and some are a very long read, but plenty of suggestions, just everything ive tried so far hasnt worked, very frustrating!

i originally had the same problem with the power just flat lining with my old setup then i changed to m and w ignition and it made a massive difference in top end but it was still laggy so thats when i went single and my car went back wards but mine was valve clearance fingers crossed

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...