Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have downgraded to a K26 (the KKK (Blitz) model one down from this turbo)

No shaft play

Great Condition - It seems to have been rebuilt at some stage - but I don't know for sure.

Journal bearing - no water lines needed.

Polished compressor housing

T25 flange adapted to to fit either T25 or T3 flange

This Turbo made 312rwkw on an RB20

turbo1.jpg

turbo2.jpg

turbo3.jpg

turbo4.jpg

turbo5.jpg

turbo6.jpg

turbo7.jpg

$500 plus postage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258408-fs-kkk-k27-blitz-turbo/
Share on other sites

Sorry - no dyno graphs - previous owner had these.

I can tell you on an FJ20ET (my motor) it started boosting at 3800 and full boost by 4700 - on a 2.5 or 2.6 or 3 Litre motor it would be perfect I reckon.

Great top end power - it's just 1000 rpm to laggy for me - which is why I downsized.

I reckon it would be equivalent to a GT3040

I don't have a close up of the ID tags - but you can see the blue KKK tags in the photos above - I can get close ups later

What do you mean by outlet snouts ?? The exhaust/compressor wheel size ? or the Manifold flange ? or the Inlet snout from intercooler ??

Dump pipe flange and you need and external wastegate - so either an adaptor between the turbo and the std manifold (not recommended) OR a new Exhaust manifold with external wastegate.

You would prob need to re-plumb/size your intercooler piping too.

This is a big turbo people - prob better suit a high/top mount than a low mount !

Please be aware - this is not Chinese/Korean KKR turbo

This is a GERMAN KKK turbo - same people who make Turbo's for BLITZ

The K26 that I have just put on my FJ20ET is a 320HP - THe K27 is the big brother of this turbo.

Here is the compressor map for the K27 - two actually....

k27.jpg

k278.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...