Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I tried to post this in the tutorial/DIY section, but its not coming up, so I guess a mod has to move it there...

--------------

Ok, I thought I'd write up a tutorial on how I did this install, because although on alot of cars these conversion kits are plug 'n play, on my car they were anything but...

The kit I used was one of NYTSKY's (Dave) Helligkeit group buy conversion kits, but I'd assume you will have the same problems with all of them if you have the same lights as mine. My car has the projector type lights which take a h1 globe. However, they have a funky(?) design in which the globe actually sits in the front of a globe holder and this holder gets pushed into the back of the headlight assembly. The following pics show the design...

IMG_6212.jpg

IMG_6217.jpg

As you can see, there is no way that the HID kit globes are going to work in these lights without some mods - the HID globes have their wires running straight into the back of them and will not plug into the standard globe holder.

So to make it work in your lights....

*Before you begin, have both your lights out of the back of the headlight, but only do one at a time - this will allow you to make comparisons in terms of positioning etc*

Step 1: Pull out the globe holder and dissasemble. This involves removing the rubber grommet then carefully bending out the metal tabs

IMG_6213.jpg

Step 2: This was a big leap of faith, because from this point there was no turning back - if it didnt work i'd have to source new holders. All was good in the end though. Start off buy using a hobby/stanley knife to scrape all the silicone goo crap off the back of the plastic holder with the metal tabs on it. This is a messy job, but removing as much as you can will make it much easier to do the next step, which is to drill out the holder. The aim here is to make as large a hole as possible, and also to remove the metal tabs which are moulded into the plastic. I used a bench drill with the largest drill I had (not sure what size, but still left reasonably thick walls on the plastic holder) to carefully drill from the metal tab end of the holder through to the front. If you do this you will notice the metal tabs fold over on the front of the holder making it difficult to drill right through. Once I hit the metal tabs i carefully bent them out of the way, then snapped/cut them off, and finished drilling through.

IMG_6214.jpg

IMG_6215.jpg

Step 3: If you don't have a dremel/multitool this next step will be quite difficult. I used a dremel and cutting/grinding attachments to gradually increase the size of the hole and cut around the plastic that was holding the metal tabs in. I was then able to pry/snap them out.

IMG_6220.jpg

You will notice in the picture there are 3 plastic pins that locate the globe in the right place. In the first light I did I removed these, however I later realised they are important in locating the globe in the right location in the holder, so do your best to avoid damaging these... If you do, its not vital, as you will see further down.

Step 4: Increase the hole size, and removed the electric contacts and file out the holder so that your HID globe base will fit into the hole.

IMG_6224.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 5: It is at this point that you will need to test to make sure your HID globes will fit into the hole. However, on my kit, the globes were wired to a nice rubber grommet and new connections that fit into the headlight plug - neither of which would fit through the hole. This meant I had to cut the wires running to the back of the HID globes and put in some spade connectors.

IMG_6219.jpg

P1040384.jpg

Step 6:

By now, you're HID globes should slot nicely into your modified globe holder, and are ready to be fitted back into the holder and then the headlights... As I mentioned, keeping those 3 little plastic pins means that straight away the globe will fit in place nicely as seen in the first picture, hoewever if you damaged them in the drilling stage you can do what I did for the first light I did (when i didn't realise they were fairly important). I ended up using 3 o-rings around the base to make sure the globe sat in the appropriate location. The first pic below shows the O-ring approach, the second shows the neater and easier plastic pin approach...

IMG_6218.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 7:

Now you can connect the spade connectors back up, wrap them securely in electrical tape as well to make sure they are well insulated, and reassemble the holder. Make sure you orient the metal ring and the metal clip the right way, then bend the tabs back down to hold it all in place. Don't forget to put the rubber grommet on too, otherwise you will have to try and stretch it over the globe (which from experience is not easy).

IMG_6230.jpg

Step 8: Now you can put it all in the way you would if it was plug n play - connect the HID spade connectors into your existing light plugs, mount your ballasts somewhere secure ( I used some existing holes down behind the front bumper, bolted em up and used some stick on velcro between the ballast and the car frame so they were secure and didn't rattle).

Step 9: Wait until it gets dark and go test em out! Mine came up sweet, with a nice cutoff, minimal hotspots and no adjustment needed. I wouldn't say they are as good as OEM HID headlights, but they are alot better than the standard lights I used to have...

P1040385.jpg

P1040386.jpg

Thanks to Dahtone Racing for the idea in this thread...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t194275.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258494-hid-install-for-r32s/
Share on other sites

I did this last weekend also. I found that i had to shorten the 3 little pins on the globe holder as the base of the HID globe is thicker and i couldn't get the globe holder to clip in properly untill i cut them down.

Good work in posting this up btw :)

Ah yep, I had the same problem, forgot to mention that. I ended up just filing a tiny bit off the top of those pins to get it to clip in - As I mentioned in the write-up, that distance is critical to getting them to click in and stay in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...