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R32 - How much piping? - Hybrid 600x300x76


MM2death
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I'm about to put a Hybrid 600x300x76 intercooler on my 32 GTS-t. And i want to order the piping. I am planning on using all 2.5 inch stainless grade 304. I am aware that i need two 3->2.5inch reducers. It's the bends and what length straights that i require info for. What bends and how many etc....

I know this is a RB25 pic, but i want to route my piping like this. And if possible, incorporate the existing piping from the turbo down into behind the front bar.

SupraCrazy200309190446journalfile4.jpg

If anyone could help me, it would be greatly appreciated...

Scott

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have you considered the reverse direction of piping?

my piping goes like this:

- out of turbo

- between engine and radiator (as pictured)

- down thru cooler

- back up stock position

- into cross over pipe.

there fore the cooled air has less path to travel along to gain heat. The pictured design would gain heat as it comes out of the cooler going between raditaor and block.

i know air is travelling fast and maybe affect the air tempt to a poof-teenth but it all ads up.

just a thought.

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Guest darrinspencer

you will need 6 90 deg bends, one which you will cut in half to make 2 45 deg bends and should only need 1 metre of straight pipe.

I bought 8 bends and 2 metres of pipe when i did my 32, and i still have 1 bend and 1 metre of pipe left over and i replaced the factory pipe from the turbo to the intercooler.

If you don't want to run the pipes at 45 deg from under the battery to the top of the engine, you can run them at about 60 deg which means you will need 7 90 deg bends. (I hope that makes sense.)

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Hi MM2death, I gotta ask, why stainless instead of alloy? Stainless is way heavier, costs lots more, holds more heat and takes longer to shed it.

We use aluminium donuts of the appropriate diameter (as pictured) and then cut the angles to suite.

My experience has been that having a 120 degree bend at the throttle body reduces the length of the pipework substantially for better response and does away with the heat soak problem from the radiator.

Hope that helps

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OK thanks for the help guys. I was told that SS was a better option by a few people. They said that aluminium held the heat longer....so obviously that is BS. I think i will go with aluminium now as it will be alot easier on my bank account. :(

Skyrine Dave, i have never actually thought of doing it that way. Good idea. But i think the problem i would face by doing it this way is that the piping will interfere with my stock airbox.....and i want to keep it. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Oh and thanks Darrin, i totally forgot when you told me that. Should make life easier for me now.

Regards,

Scott

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Guest darrinspencer

Do your sums

prices quoted are from GCG web site

2 1/2 inch alloy donuts $66 ea you need 2 $132

3 to 2 1/2 reducers $80 ea $160 from piping to intercooler

2 1/2 jointers need 3 $25 ea $75

good hose clamps about 6 off $30

thats a total of $422 add $700 for Hybrid cooler that a total of $1122.

the group buy is for $1100 for a full kit with polished piping and you do not have to stuff around for a day or two making the piping and welding it all then polishing it.

Just my thoughts.

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Guest darrinspencer

i agree with sydneykid on the alloy piping with heat soak.

All the Hks apexi etc kits are alloy and i am sure they have done their tests between alloy and s/steel.

The funny thing is, i was on america ebay just before, and they sell intercooler piping kits in S/steel and say the total opposite.

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Guest darrinspencer

ask Jet if you can just buy the piping kit.

Hybrid (www.powerdigger.com) sell the powder coated steel complete kit for $450 at the moment. I think the next shipment will be alloy piping, because that is what Jet is selling in the group buy.

they are mandrel bent piping, so there is no internal rough welded joints, better for air flow.

It not worth making your own, only if you want the practice.

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why dont you run it from turbo to the passenger side of the cooler.. and then up through the battery place and up to a 180 degree bend ontop of the cam cover.. if ya get what i mean.. should be just as good as what everyone else is running.. you are getting rid of a fair bit or piping and only adding a 180degree bend.. cant be too restrictive.

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Hi guys, tell the Americans radiators are aluminium 'cause it transfers heat better. When they start making stainless steel radiators then I will believe them that its better than alloy for pipework.

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Originally posted by Sydneykid

My experience has been that having a 120 degree bend at the throttle body reduces the length of the pipework substantially for better response and does away with the heat soak problem from the radiator.

Which just leaves heat soak from the cam covers to deal with. If you don't want to modify your plenum, then Sydneykid's piping route is the best way. Just forget the bling look and insulate it!

Aluminium alloy is cheaper by the metre but more expensive to work with (needs a TIG). Regardless, it's the only thing to use.

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I think the general rule is that strainless steel takes longer to heat up therefore takes longer to dissipate heat.... aluminium heats up quickly but cools quickly too.

The aluminium vs stainless debate is a long running one :P

Red17

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