Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried searching and digging through some old threads and couldnt come up with a answear. So any help would be appreciated.

So I currently have a blown RB25det series 2 in my car and just purchased a series 1, so my issue is how do I convert the Series 1 to a 2?

Do I just use my series 2 coils on the series 1 as my car is wired for the series 2? this seems like the most viable solution.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258742-rb25-series-1-to-series-2/
Share on other sites

hello

the ecu is the same for series 1 and 2 so the differences will be on the physical side

ie series 1 tps vs series 2 has different plug, but all work the same according to ECU

the series 1 and series 2 are same, but series 1 has an extra ground wire

likewise, minor differences, they work the same, just phyiscal difference

Is it just the CAS thats different on the very late S2 engines or are there other differences (internal/external). Would be interested to know considering its very close to the first of the NEO build.

the 1998 R33 builds have the ER34 RB25 style CAS

it works the same, runs the same, voltage the same

just looks different - ie its the ER34 CAS

Yeah i have a Dec 97 and its got the plastic cas,just wondering whether it shared anything else with the 34 or is that it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
    • That awesome thanks for that. 
    • You can Remote any of these VR30..globally  Check: AMS Performance | Racebox | Sonic Tune | Soho | Z Motorsports | Specialty Z    Performance Parts | AMS | Z Motorsports | Boosted 6 |    Exhaust | Fast Intentions | ARK | MBRP Motordyne | Borla    There is someone in Sydney with 650whp   I am at 430whp without flex fuel, but FBO & Flex-fuel will push you to 500whp!!  
×
×
  • Create New...