Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah in the end I figured out how to hold the belt under tension by myself when slipping the gear on, but there was one point where I got a friend to keep it under tension while I fiddled with the gear and it was much easier.

Whatever the case, 2 hours workshop time seems to be a bit of a rort. But I've had 2 different quotes from 2 different (somewhat reputable) workshops and they both seemed to think it was a much bigger job than it really is. One said that the PFC tune would cost an additional $150 because they would fiddle with the gear timing between runs to get the optimal setting. So that's around another 2 hours of gear fiddling?!

HI guys

Don't know if you guys noticed this or not but my EGT seems to be reading a bit colder after installing the cam pulleys at 2 and 4.It used to register 600'c or so on cruise speed but now it's at 500'c

Anyone has this similar reading on their EGT?

I have also increased the AFC to 4% increase across the RPM range too.

What should be the ignition timing to go with this setup? mines on an advanced timing.

Has anyone done more than 2 and 4?

JimX, Most of the workshops would do it properly and take the timing belt off, which involves removing the radiator and harmonic balancer off etc. We just do it the quick way, which is fine aslong as you don't let the belt jump a tooth:D

EnricoPalazzo, $160 is the workshop labour price I was quoted (2 hours) from a workshop.

GTS-t VSPEC, I don't know why the workshop would bother removing the timing belt unless they were going to change it. If you were going to pay for that, you may as well change the belt while it's all off, even if it's not yet due. Mine still looks brand new after 20k km ;)

  • 1 month later...
How do you know whats 4 degrees, i just bought one and cant see anything.  Do i just guestimate?

Eeeckkk.. Don't guess....

Isn't there any degrees marking on it???

If not, then I'm stuffed... I know 3 degrees isn't very much at all. Like about 1-1.5mm at the most.

I remember adjusting it to 3 degrees and looking at how much it was moved and thinking to myself "ummm, are they sure that's gunna make a difference !!".

But sure enough it did.

J

The marks will be at about 10 o'clock on the inlet side, and 2 o'clock on the exhaust side.

With the crank at TDC, and adjustable exhaust cam gear set at zero, you need to get the 'dot' on the inlet cam to line up with the 'dash' on the cam cover backing plate that's at 10 o'clock.  Then get the 'dot' on the exhaust cam wheel to line up with the 'dash' at 2 o'clock on the cam cover backing plate.

J

is this the same for the RB20DET? Thanks

Eeeckkk..  Don't guess....

Isn't there any degrees marking on it???

If not, then I'm stuffed...  I know 3 degrees isn't very much at all.  Like about 1-1.5mm at the most.

I remember adjusting it to 3 degrees and looking at how much it was moved and thinking to myself "ummm, are they sure that's gunna make a difference !!".

But sure enough it did.

J

I can find zero, but they said you'll have to tune it on a dyno, so i might move it a mill or something. Looks like anything negative to 4 degrees is going to improve somewhat. :wassup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...