Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

can anyone help me, i have changed my battery on my 34 gtr , drove the car couple days then left it off for 2 days went to start it the other night wouldnt crank , had to jump start it , i thought at first it was the battery but got it checked it was fine ,

anyone had this problem before , any ideas

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259032-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

what battery did you buy??? dry cell?

ummm off topic but your profile says you have an rb26 echo? as in toyota echo or am i way off

got no clue a mate bought it for me from supercheap ....

i do have a toyoto echo not r26 in it just yet , ill be building a monster engine for my r34 gtr soon and old motor will go into echo , dont ask how i will get it in there im still trying to figure out a way ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259032-r34-gtr/#findComment-4452145
Share on other sites

If its an oldish tracking/gps alarm, then there is nothing you can do ...

Version 3 backwards quicktrack tend to drain the battery within a week or two ... not 2 days ... Version 4 quicktrack onwards is good with battery power ...

Even still, tracking alarm or not, it should take more than 2 days to drain the battery ... are there any interior/boot lights that may be on when closing door or the door/boot closure sensor/button may be stuffed?

Do you have a big audio setup or tend to use a lot of ampage from the battery whilst driving the car? Might be an alternator issues whereby its not charging the battery fast enuf as you are expending the power ...

Or if you just wired up an electrical gizzmo like audio, might be draining the battery from that - incorrect wiring not turning off when ignition is off?

And lastly, if all of the above is fine, change batteries to an extra heavy duty Century battery .. ive had battery issues before with a few cars, changed to century - never looked back =D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259032-r34-gtr/#findComment-4452265
Share on other sites

Hey

can anyone help me, i have changed my battery on my 34 gtr , drove the car couple days then left it off for 2 days went to start it the other night wouldnt crank , had to jump start it , i thought at first it was the battery but got it checked it was fine ,

anyone had this problem before , any ideas

thanks

well seems like everyone is coming up with all different sort of advice

rather than guessing and wondering....lets start by testing with the multimeter if the Alternator is charging FIRST.

because if your gonna ask them to replace another battery...they could say your alternator is not charging it.

here is a simple guideline:

1) Start Car and run at a normal idle.

2) Connect a multimeter Directly Across the battery Terminals.

3) Turn on Headlights to High Beam.

4) check the battery Voltage.

The Battery voltage Should read between about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (Possibly up to 14.5 Volts.)

5) Increase motor speed to about 1500 RPM. The Alternator should now produce a battery voltage between 14.2 and 14.6

Volts.

note: If it is Lower than 14.2 volts, the Alternator probably has one or more Bad Diodes.

6) Now, Maintain the 1500 RPM and Turn off the Headlights. Run this test for One Full Minute.

"The Battery Voltage should NEVER Exceed about 14.8 Volts".

note:If it Does, the Alternators Voltage Regulator is probably Faulty, OVER CHARGING the Battery.

anyways......let us know if you have troubles understanding this and ill run you through it

Edited by eeiko321
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259032-r34-gtr/#findComment-4452285
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...