Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I need a recommendation for a good alloy welder...hills area preffered (as the car is unregistered) - i need a crack welded up in the front of the block.

If i can get a quote..or if one of you guys can help me out that'd be awesome!!

I'm trying to sell it and thats holding me back!

Thanks in advance!!!

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259230-alloy-welders-weld-sr20-block/
Share on other sites

what is the crack going to be subjected to?? coolant?? combustion etc?? very few people will be able to successfully weld it up if its wet.. they need to be completly dry and clean to weld.

you could try some devcon... i used it on my radiator for 4 months, its still holding, ive just replaced it since.

um... why the hell would he want to do that? ya freak.

coz its more reliable and easier to get higher power derrrr lol

also you don't get cracks in the block...

also its a skyline forum so most people on here are biassed towards it

hehehehe :)

so waht you're saying is because it's a skyline forum, they don't know any better?

that's all im hearing

(ps. I purposely ignored the comment on reliability as i have nothing to say on the topic for obvious reasons. Thanks for reading)

whats wrong with the sr20?? if i had time and fundage... id consider putting one in my 32... but i dont like engine swaps like that.. but imagine the lightweight engine... mounted as close to the firewall as possible, with a lowmount turbo..

the weight would be behind the front wheels and with the skyline chassis and double wishbone front end... it would be pretty good on the twisties.

and they sound tuff.

nothing like an rb though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...