Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all selling my R33 GTS-t which is white snow in colour </b> </b> Manual 5 speed</b> It has the following list of modifications </b> :Fujisubo 3inch cat back with Jasma 5 inch muffler</b> :Excedy cushion button clutch 1000km old</b> :Pod filter (have standard air box and snorkel)</b> :BOV vent to atmosphere </b> :safc2 (tuned by chasers in Melb 176rwkw)</b> :new kyb shockers and Tein sports-R springs all round</b> :new bump stops and boot protectors all round </b> :Brand new kumho ecsta k30 silica tyres 235 front and 265 rear</b> :G-max 18inch wheels 18x8.5 front 18x9 rear</b> :pioneer head unit, 10" pioneer sub and amp</b> :new Bendix ultimate brake pads front and Bendix ct rear pads</b> :serviced recently and upon purchase the car will be detailed ie. cut and polish and wax</b> :Price:$13995</b> :Reg till 13 Dec 2009</b> :Phone 0430-051-622</b> :Reason for selling: have company car now and cant enjoy it.</b> :please if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.</b>

Hi all selling my R33 GTS-t which is white snow in colour

  • Manual 5 speed

  • It has the following list of modifications

  • Interior

  • :Drivers side recaro bucket seat

  • :Greedy white boost gauge

  • :Safc2 tuned by chasers motorsport (176rwkw)

  • :Greedy white boost gauge :pioneer head unit, 10" pioneer sub and amp

  • Suspension and Tires

  • :New KYB shockers and TEIN sports (spec-R) springs all round

  • :Brand new Kumho ECSTA k30 silica tyres, 235 front and 265 rear

  • :New Bendix ultimate brake pads (front) and Bendix CT break pads (rear)

  • :new bump stops and boot protectors all round (professional installation by Pedders)

  • :HR-Racing 18inch wheels 18x8.5 (front) 18x9 (rear) silver mat finish

  • Motor AND Drivetrain

  • :Fujisubo 3-inch cat back with Jasma 5 inch muffler

  • :Excedy cushion button clutch 1000km old

  • :Pod filter (have standard air box and snorkel)

  • :Flyen BOV (vent to atmosphere)

  • :manual boost controler set at 9psi

  • Other info

  • :serviced recently and every 5000km with motul oils

  • :paint in good condition and upon purchase the car will be detailed ie. cut and polish and wax

<ul> :Now reason for selling is that i have a company car and cannot enjoy it or drive it as often as i like so it has to go

  • :Price:$13995

  • :Reg till 13 Dec 2009

  • :Phone 0430-051-622

  • :please if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

<ul> :Any pics i will email to your account please send me an email to arrange viewing of car of pics to be sent

  • :car drives beautifully and have most receipts for modifications and work undertaken on car

cheers Jim

Edited by jkotsa

OK SOME PICS ARE UP AT THE FOLLOWING LINKS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...image72344.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...image72343.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ji...image72342.html note car has a more aggressive stance now with new shocks and tein springs forgot to mention comes with a greddy pillar to 2 60mm guages

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/si...image72345.html will try get some shots of the interior soon Edited by jkotsa
  • 8 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Please no more joy riders!!!!! I will be the only one driving it, as it is only insured under my name. That is final only considering serious offers

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Please guys, no more offers of trading/swapping the car, As stated above I have a company car so no need for another car. cheers Jim 0430-051-622

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...