Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

My car is running fine but id love to get no error codes. Just because we can...

So im trying to fix this error code 21 (ignition system). Refering to the guide and performing its required tests here are my results... can anyone help me come to a clear conclusion?

This could be a good reference for future skyline riders who get this error.

Just Before i begin ive noticed in the skyline manual it says the ignitor harness should be 1,2,3,4,5,6,G ... however mine is 1,2,3,G,4,5,6 I hope thats normal in australian skylines or has the previous owner done something custom.

TEST ONE - Remove each connector to the coils/spark plugs to see if rev changes.

This test passed, all connectors made an impact to rpms.

TEST TWO - On the Ignitor harness check continuity between terminal E and Earth.

Passed.

TEST THREE - Test continuity between certain ecu terminals and ignitor connectors.

CONFUSED:::: Why are these results ended up this way, is this normal??Could this be a cause???

Check ECU terminal ->(conects to)-> Ignitor Terminal | RESULT: ECU TERMINAL ->(was actually connected to)-> Ignitor Terminal

1 -> 2 | 1 -> 1 (good connection)

12 ->2 | 12 -> 5 (good connection)

3 -> 3 | 3 -> 3 (good connection)

13 -> 4 | 13 -> 6 (good connection)

2 -> 5 | 2 -> 2 (good connection)

11 -> 6 | 11 -> 4 (good connection)

10 -> E | 10 -> E (flakey, connection wasnt showing 100% continuity)

20 -> E | 10 -> E (good connection)

CONCLUSION: ??

TEST FOUR: Check voltages of ecu terminals below with a group point on idle it is expected to be aprox 0.2V~0.3V.

Terminals: 1,2,3,11,12,13 all showed 0.07V~0.08V on idle.

Ive then also noted this wire loose which seems to be sticking out of the the connection leading to the furthest (from front of car) spark plug.

06032009155.jpg

I also noticed the wire below (black/purlple) just loops,is that normal?:

06032009156.jpg

So is anyone able to help on this one?

Edited by rnbguy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260063-error-code-21-diagnosed-results/
Share on other sites

The black wire with broken connector on the end is meant to be earthed. Crimp a new connector on the end and earth it to the rocker cover with a coil pack cover screw. The loop in the harness is used for checking timing and is normal.

Edited by nIsMo86
Just Before i begin ive noticed in the skyline manual it says the ignitor harness should be 1,2,3,4,5,6,G ... however mine is 1,2,3,G,4,5,6 I hope thats normal in australian skylines or has the previous owner done something custom.

123456g is a rb 20 ignitor, 123g456 is a s1 rb25 ignitor

thanx for clearing that up, ive noticed a few typos in the manual because that pattern was written to be for a rb25det.... so why does the guide say ecu pin 1 (inj 1) is supposed to goto pin 2 on the ignitor (im guessing meaning cyl 2) when in mine actually ends up ecu 1 goes to ignitor 1?

and same with the rest mentioned above?

do not forget that Code 21 can be an intermittent fault - at start, later it becomes somewhat permanent as the coil(s) breakdown more - so you may get good readings during testing even though you may be following correct procedure

if the coilpacks are oem Nissan and have done about 60k+ already you may as well just get new set of Splitfires and be done

do not forget that Code 21 can be an intermittent fault - at start, later it becomes somewhat permanent as the coil(s) breakdown more - so you may get good readings during testing even though you may be following correct procedure

if the coilpacks are oem Nissan and have done about 60k+ already you may as well just get new set of Splitfires and be done

thanx for the tips guys, grounding that black wire pictured above fixed the issue 21 from comming back up and at the same time fixed the not so well result above of the Earth to pin 10....

I'll still be curious why the ecu injectors are pointing to different points on the ignitor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...